48 Europe The Economist July 17th 2021
A
butterfly-shapedislandinthe
central Aegean hopes to become
Greece’s first carbonfree tourist destina
tion. Under a deal with the government,
Volkswagen, a carmaker, has donated
several new electric vehicles for use by
Astypalea’s public services; it will sell
others at cost price to its 1,200 year
round residents. In return, the govern
ment has bumped up subsidies for is
landers to buy electric cars and will build
a hybrid solar and windfuelled power
plant to replace a cluster of polluting
dieselfired generators.
Unlike other nearby islands, Astypa
leaisnotconnectedtoGreece’selectric
itygrid.Withonly3,000roomsforvisi
torsinsmallhotelsorflats,tourismis
stilllowkey.Manyresidentsmakea
livingtheoldfashionedway:raising
goats,keepingbeesandfishing.The
islandwasselectedforVolkswagen’s
emobilityexperimentafterNikosKomi
neas,thegoaheadmayor,contactedthe
transportministryforhelpinfindingan
electricbustotryoutonitsruggedroads.
Mostislanderssoundkeenonthe
project.MrKomineasexpectsthenum
berofprivatecarsonAstypaleatofallby
a thirdoverthenextfiveyears.Itsresi
dents,hesays,willgetaroundone
scootersandelectricminibuses,which
willbefree,linkedtoa mobilephone
appandavailableroundtheclock.
Someobserversdetecta whiffof
greenwashing.A tender for a solar park
that would generate half the island’s
electricity within three years will not get
under way before the tourist season
ends. A single wind turbine will be in
stalled only in 2026, assuming the li
censing process goes smoothly. That is
not normally the case in the Aegean,
where islanders worry that tourists will
go elsewhere if the view is spoiled by a
turbine 200 metres high. And even then,
the hybrid power unit is planned to cover
only about 80% of summer demand. But
it is a start.
Greece
Electric island
ATHENS
An experiment in low-carbon living
Heliostriumphant
Viticulture
The grapes are off
I
nthefoothillsofChiantiClassicoin
central Italy, Elena Lapini and her hus
band make their way down neat rows of
grapevines and inspect their fruit. The
grapes are ripening too fast under the blis
tering sun. Too much bronzing on the vine
and they will wither into raisins, turning
the wine into a syrupy, unpleasant blend.
Getting the harvest date right is crucial for
this reason, Mrs Lapini says. But climate
change is making it increasingly hard.
An analysis of harvest dates going back
to 1354 from Burgundy in France found that
air temperatures have increased so much
that grapes are now harvested two weeks
earlier than in medieval times. Higher
peak temperatures have become the norm,
with the biggest jump over the past 30
years. Elizabeth Wolkovich, a biologist at
the University of British Columbia re
searching the impact of climate change on
vineyards, says rising temperatures are al
so changing the taste of wine itself.
For some cooler regions, warming con
ditions have allowed winemakers to grow
more flavourful berries and enjoy longer
growing seasons. Germany, best known for
its Riesling white wines, has become more
favourable to the heatloving grapes used
to make reds like pinot noir. Parts of rain
sodden Britain now have the perfect cli
mate to make sparkling wines, giving Brit
ish bubbly from Kent and Sussex a fair fight
against French champagne. But warmer
places like France, Italy and Spain have had
a rotten deal. Ripening grapes at a higher
temperature means more sugar and less
acid in the berry, making highalcohol,
honeylike wines.
Climate change is threatening the
world’s wine supply, not just the wines’ fla
vour. In April producers in Italy and France
found themselves lighting thousands of
bucketsized candles to warm the air and
ward off a killer frost that threatened to de
stroy buds emerging with the first warm
spells of spring. It wasn’t enough. In some
regions the frost wiped out 90% of the
crop, resulting in an estimated €2bn loss.
French officials described it as “probably
the greatest agricultural catastrophe of the
beginning of the 21st century”.
Scientists concluded that the plants
were coaxed to bud early by recordbreak
ing temperatures in March. This made the
chilly nights of early April particularly da
maging. Climate change may make such
events more common.
Some regions are better dressed for the
weather; 51% of Europe’s shrublands are
vulnerable, compared with just 7% in
North America. Part of the problem is that
European species are not welladjusted to a
warming world. They bud early, quickly re
acting to warming air temperatures only to
die once they suddenly drop. North Ameri
ca, by contrast, harbours cautious species
with adaptive strategies. They do not bud
until they have experienced a sufficiently
long winter, regardless of short warm
spells in spring.
Geographical differences help explain
why. With no eastwest mountain ranges
in North America, warm air from the Gulf
of Mexico and cold air from Arctic regions
move freely across the continent, creating
large fluctuations in temperature over
short time periods. Constantin Zohner, a
biologist at ethZürich, jokes that plants
don’t want to take any risks in such an un
predictable climate. European wine
makers, he reckons, need to takenote and
plant more resilient and diversevarieties
of vine. There is no time to lose.n
Climate change is affecting the flavour
of Europe’s wines