Photocredit:^ ShutterstockPhotocredit:^ ShutterstockROUTE DESCRIPTION
1 START/FINISH:^ Milestone^ Buttress^
car park on the A 5 between Capel
Curig and Bethesda GR: SH 663603
The climb begins at the car park directly beneath
the North Ridge’s western flank. Above, the ridge is
foreshortened and only the first part of the ascent
can be seen, visible as a sprawling prow of heathery
rock. Follow an obvious path uphill beside a stone
wall, keeping left of the steep Milestone Buttress.
Ascend a bouldery shelf beneath steeper ground
to reach a shoulder. Many lines are possible on the
lower, broader section of the North Ridge. Look out
for the tell-tale signs of polished holds, indicating an
established route. Take care not to veer too far left
or right, which may lead to more serious terrain.
As you climb, the ridge gradually narrows.
2 The^ Cannon^ Stone^ (SH^665598 )^ is^ the^ route’s^
first landmark, although it isn’t obvious from
every possible line. This unmistakeable jutting slab
of rock makes an irresistible photo op! The ridge is
not too steep at this point but soon grows narrower,
and the route ahead becomes obvious. You’ll arrive
at a large, flat platform beneath a prominent nose of
rock – which is where things get really exciting.
3 The^ Nose^ looks^ intimidating^ but^ the^ best^ route^
tackles it straight up the middle. Climb the
steep rock, which is a little exposed in places but has
plenty of reassuringly big holds. The views looking
back down the ridge from here are sensational.
Above the Nose, you’ll arrive at a minor rock tower
that is best not climbed directly (obvious lines
bypass it to the right). On the other side is a rocky
descent and a step across a notch that requires care.
Here you’ll get your first clear view of the final
ascent to the summit.
4 Descend^ slightly^ to^ the^ bouldery^ bwlch(col)^
just north of the summit, then climb the last
few metres on a rocky path with no real scrambling.
The Central Summit, when you reach it, is
unmistakable. At 9 17m (3010ft), this pinnacled top
has eagle’s-eye views over the entire Ogwen Valley,
and is crowned by the famous Adam and Eve stones
- two monoliths that, tradition has it, can grant the
‘Freedom of Tryfan’ if you jump between them
(strictly optional!).
5 Continue^ in^ the^ same^ direction^ to^ the^ smaller^
South Peak, then descend the South Ridge –
also a Grade 1 scramble, but much shorter and
easier than the North Ridge, and not much more
than a bouldery walk. The way is generally obvious
as it skirts west around the Far South Peak.
6 Descend^ to^ Bwlch^ Tryfan,^ a^ broad^ grassy^ col^
marked by a stone wall, and take the obvious
path heading NW into Cwm Bochlwyd.
7 At^ Llyn^ Bochlwyd^ (good^ views^ back^ to^ Glyder^
Fach) cross the stream outflow and descend
steeply on the west bank of the Nant Bochlwyd,
then take the path heading NE across grassy slopes
back to the road.
August 2021 The Great Outdoors 17