72 The Great OutdoorsAugust 2021
BEINN LAIR &
A’ MHAIGHDEAN
In this gear-focused trip report, Chris Townsendputs a host
of new clothing and equipment to the test during a four-day
backpacking trip in the wild mountain country of FisherfieldA
AS I PASSEDbelow the steep ramparts of
Slioch the path became rougher. There are
magnificent old oak woods here, and I was
pleased to see many young trees inside
fenced regeneration areas established
by the Letterewe estate. My first camp
was above one of these, looking over
Loch Maree to the Torridon hills. A breeze
kept away the midges and I was ableto sit
outside, as was the case at every camp of
the trip.
The next day I followed a good path up to
Loch Garbhaig and then struck off uphill to
Beinn Lair. This is a fine big hill but pathless
as it only reaches 859 metres: well below
Munro height. On the climb, going up the
boggy tussocky slopes was quite arduous;
but once on the wide ridge short grass and
stony ground made for easy walking and I
strode along admiring the splendid views.
I had thought of a high camp but thickening
dark clouds, a strengthening wind, and some
big spots of rain kept me moving all the way
down to the Fionn Loch, where I made my
second camp. The incipient storm came to
nothing though, the wind dwindling to a
light breeze.
For two days I’d seen no-one. Now there
were others on the excellent twisting path
leading up from the Fionn Loch and the
Dubh-Loch to the col between the Ruadh
Stac Mor and A’ Mhaighdean, both Munros,
the latter said to be the most remote of
all. From much of the ascent I was able to
admire the huge, long cliff that makes up
the north face of Beinn Lair, something
unsuspected from its summit.
From the col I went up A’ Mhaighdean, to
be rewarded by clearing skies and superb
views and the summit to myself. After sitting
awhile gazing at the mountains and the sea,
lochs and sky, I set off down the mountain’s
south-west slopes. These are wide and
gentle – a total contrast to the steep rockfaces to the west and north – and I was soon
down by Lochan Fada and pitching my tent
for a third night. The mostly cloudy weather
cleared here, and I had lovely evening and
morning light. Then there was just the
long walk-out beside the lochan and
down Glean Bianasdail to the outward
path and Kinlochewe.Planning and preparation
The forecast was for warm weather, mostly
cloudy with the chance of showers and a
strong breeze. I hope the last would keep
away the midges (it did) but I still wanted
a tent that would keep them out if it didn’t
(and I packed a head net, mosquito coils,
and repellent). However,tents can get
stuffy on warm nights, so I also wanted
one with good ventilation. For sleeping,
a light mat and a bag that could also be
easily vented struck me as sensible.
Light clothing seemed best to prevent
getting too sweaty but as always I wasn’t
going without waterproofs and a warm top,
though I reckoned light ones would do. Thewind meant a windshirt might be needed -
I usually carry one in summer anyway.
Recent hot weather had stripped
away most of the snow. Theice axeand
crampons are packed away now until
the first snows next autumn. It’s the time
for trail shoes rather than boots too. In
summer I prefer getting my feet wet from
the outside than from sweat inside hot
boots. As it was my feet stayed dry until the
rain of the last twenty minutes of the walk.
My gear was the usual mix of well-
proven favourites, new test gear and gear
on long-term test. At 16kg the pack was
quite heavy for a four-daysummer trip but
not so much that it was a real burden. If I
hadn’t been testing this one I’d have taken
a lighter-weight pack with a simpler design.
I could havetaken a lighter sleeping bag
too, but I don’t have one that’s as versatile
as the one I took. I think I should have
left the foam pad behind and saved 200
grams and I could have taken ultralight
waterproofs. Overall though my selection
worked fine for this trip.TRIP REPORT
Gear trip report
Photography: Chris Townsend