90 The Great OutdoorsAugust 2021
through unseen rapids signalled
its presence between vertical
slabs topped with birch, hazel
and ash. e first spots of rain
pattered throughquivering
leaves, and the gorge revealed
hypnotic patterns of foam
spiralling over ominous pools
of dark, peat-stained water.
Unexpected thrills
continued to astound. In
Ashgillthe beck rambles over
wide shelves ofrock, then
rushes through constricting
cracks, eager torally with
the river. As we climbed,
leafy umbrellas delayed the
downpour,and we sheltered
in slowly dripping, pungent
woodland, with Ashgill Force
thunderingdown through the
slender archof an exquisite
bridge, through which
sunshine flashed.
e deluge eased as we
climbed towards our only
summit atFlinty Fell. Behind
us clouds gathered and
glowered; but Cross Felltook
the brunt, and slowly chinks
of lightbegan to emerge.
Cottongrass wavedin the wind,
while moorland grasses and
mosses gathered sunlight in
dainty drops. e path skips by
the top,but oncebeyondthe
upper walland fence you can
reach itover thebrow. Curlews
went crazy,alarm callsfrantic
as they ushered us on from
hidden young.
Meanwhile the path dived
into a cosy gill thatsweeps
round to Nenthead. We
wandered into an oldmining
area, passing spoil heaps
and abandoned buildings.
en came a stone-covered
leat, still working and
shepherding water to aminiature reservoir set above
astonishing smelt mill remains.
Tours takeinterested parties
into the mine, and much of
this valley holds scheduled
monumentstatus.
Nenthead, regarded as the
best-preserved mine in the
North Pennines, was a leading
producer of lead. It also
processed zinc and possibly
silver, though tales abound
in the area. One resident
proclaimed Nenthead as
England’shighest village.
It probably depends on how
you define it; but there is no
disputing its beauty and
fascinating history, which we
continued to ponder over
Nunnery Hill, and during our
descent past Bentyfield Mine to
Shieldhill and Loaning Head,
where we picked up the track
back to Garrigill.Further information
Maps:OS 1:50,000
Landranger sheet 86
(Haltwhistle & Brampton)
or 1:25,000 Explorer sheet
OL31 (North Pennines
Teesdale & Weardale)Transport:None to the
start, but the 889 bus from
Alston to Hexham passes
through Nenthead (Tuesday
only). Details from Wright
Brothers Coaches, 01434
381200, wrightscoaches.co.ukiInformation:Alston TIC
(01434 382244),
northpennines.org.uk[Captions clockwise from top]
Round Hill from Ashgillside;
Smelt mill remains at Nenthead
Mines; Nenthead Mines;
Heading to Bentyfield Mine