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Sacred Tooth Relic itself – make up one of
Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle sites.St Paul’s Church CHURCH
(map p 146 ; Deva veediya; by donation) Construc-
tion of this red brick colonial-era church
began in 1843 and was completed five
years later. It originally served as a garrison
church for British troops based nearby. To-
day it stands in solemn contrast to the bois-
terous comings and goings in the next door
Temple of the Sacred Tooth relic.Kandy Garrison Cemetery CEmETERY
(map p 146 ; h8am-6pm) F This cemetery,
which is a short walk uphill behind the Na-
tional Museum, contains 163 graves dating
back to colonial times. The most striking
aspect of a visit to this melancholy place is
just how young most people were when they
died – if you made it to 40 you were a very
ripe old age. Some of the deaths were due to
sunstroke, elephants or jungle fever.Kandy Monasteries BUDDHiST TEmPlE
The principal viharas (Buddhist complexes)
in Kandy have considerable importance –
the high priests of the two best known, Mal-
watte and Asgiriya, are the most important
in Sri Lanka. They are the headquarters of
two of the main nikayas (orders of monks).
The Malwatte Maha Vihara (map p 146 ; San-
agaraja mawatha) is across the lake from the
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, while theAsgiriya Maha Vihara (map p 146 ; Wariyap-
ola Sri Sumanga mawatha) is off Wariyapola
Sri Sumanga Mawatha, northwest of the
town centre. It has a large reclining Buddha
image.Udawattakelle Sanctuary FOREST
(map p 146 ; adult/child Rs 650/375; h6.30am-
6pm, last tickets issued at 4.30pm) North of the
lake, this forest has huge trees, good bird-
watching and loads of cheeky monkeys.
Birdwatchers can arrange guides (Rs 500) at
the ticket office. Be careful if you’re visiting
alone. Muggers are rare but not unknown;
solo women should take extra care.
Enter by turning right after the post office
on DS Senanayake Vidiya.1 Devales
There are four Kandyan devales to the gods
who are followers of Buddha and protect Sri
Lanka. Three of the four devales are near
the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.Natha Devale BUDDHiST TEmPlE
(map p 146 ; h24hr) The 14th-century Natha
Devale is the oldest of Kandy’s devales. It
perches on a stone terrace with a fine va-
halkada (solid panel of sculpture) gateway.
Bodhi trees and dagobas stand in the devale
grounds.Pattini Devale BUDDHiST TEmPlE
(map p 146 ; h24hr) The simple Pattini Devale
is dedicated to the goddess of chastity.Vishnu Devale BUDDHiST TEmPlE
(map p 146 ; h24hr) The Vishnu Devale is
reached by carved steps and features a
drumming hall. The great Hindu god Vish-
nu is the guardian of Sri Lanka, demon-
strating the intermingling of Hinduism and
Buddhism.2 Activities
Visitors can learn or practise meditation
and study Buddhism at several places in the
Kandy area. Ask at the Buddhist Publication
Society (p155) for details about courses.
There are many walks around Kandy,
including the Royal Palace Park (p153), con-
structed by Sri Wickrama Rajasinha and
overlooking the lake. Further up on Rajapi-
hilla Mawatha are even better views over
the lake, the town and the surrounding hills.
For longer walks, there are paths branching
out from Rajapihilla Mawatha. Ask at your
guesthouse.DEGAL DORUWA
RAJA MAHA VIHARA
Hidden away in Kandy’s leafy outskirts
is the little visited Degal Doruwa Raja
Maha Vihara (map p 159 ; l ewella; entry
by donation) cave temple, constructed
(with the help of some obliging boul-
ders) in the 18th century. The interior
of the cave is painted head to toe in
slightly faded but captivating murals.
These fine Kanyan-era paintings depict
scenes from the Jataka stories (tales
from the previous lives of the Buddha).
In among these are some out-of-place
paintings depicting men with guns.
These are likely to have been inspired
by the first guns to have arrived in Sri
Lanka. Alongside the paintings is a large
reclining Buddha. Visitors are likely
to be shown around by one of the five
resident monks.