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informative guide to the city’s heritage. Also
available is The Cultural Triangle, pub-
lished by Unesco and the Central Cultural
Fund, which provides background informa-
tion on the ancient sites.8 Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
The back alleys of the town centre are worth
avoiding after dark. most habitués are local guys
searching out gambling dens and late-night
bars.
Touts mooch around the train station and the
lake. it’s best to book ahead with a guesthouse;
most will pick you up from the Kandy train
station.
While researching we also heard of solo wom-
en travellers being hassled around the lakeside
at dusk and after dark. get a three-wheeler back
to your guesthouse to keep safe.INTERNET ACCESS
There are internet cafes throughout the town
centre (Kotugodelle vidiya has a glut of such
places). All charge around Rs 60 per hour. virtu-
ally every hotel also has wi-fi access.MEDICAL SERVICES
Lakeside Adventist Hospital ( map p 146 ;
%222 3466; 40 Sangaraja mawatha) Has
English-speaking staff.MONEY
The following all have ATms and exchange
facilities.
Bank of Ceylon ( map p 146 ; Dalada vidiya)
Commercial Bank ( map p 146 ; Kotugodelle
v idiya)
Hatton National Bank ( map p 146 ; Dalada
v idiya)
HSBC ( map p 146 ; Kotugodelle vidiya)POST & TELEPHONE
The main post office is opposite the train station.
A more central post office is at the intersection of
Kande vidiya and DS Senanayake vidiya. There
are numerous private communications bureaus
for iDD (international Direct Dial) calling.TOURIST INFORMATION
British Council ( map p 146 ; %222 2410; http://www.
britishcouncil.lk; 88/3 Kotugodelle vidiya;
h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun) British
newspapers, CDs, videos and DvDs, and
occasional film nights, exhibitions and plays.
Nonmembers may read newspapers on pres-
entation of a passport.KANDYAN DANCERS & DRUMMERS
With elaborate costumes, gyrating dance moves and show-stopping fire-breathing stunts,
a Kandyan dance performance is one of the defining experiences of a stay in Kandy. Calling
it a traditional Kandyan dance performance is something of a misnomer as the shows are
very much aimed at audience entertainment, and feature dance routines and costumes
from across the country, including the famous ‘devil’ dances of the west coast (which are
sadly very hard to see in their home region).
There are three different venues. All have nightly performances that last an hour (get
there 30 minutes in advance to get a better seat).
Kandy Lake Club (map p 146 ; Sanghamitta mawatha; cover Rs 500; hshow starts 5pm) Located
300m up Sanghamitta Mawatha, this place has arguably the best costumes of any of the
venues staging traditional Sri Lankan dance shows. The front seats are usually reserved for
groups, so arrive early for good seats.
Kandyan Art Association & Cultural Centre (map p 146 ; Sangharaja mawatha; cover
Rs 500; hshow starts 5pm) This is the busiest dance-show venue and in high-season it can be
overwhelmingly crammed with tour groups. However, the auditorium makes it easier to take
photographs than at other venues. It’s on the northern lake shore. Seeing as though it is so
busy, the earlier you arrive the better.
Mahanuwara YMBA (map p 146 ; %223 3444; 5 Rajapihilla mawatha; cover Rs 500; hshow
starts 5.30pm) Southwest of the lake, the YMBA guesthouse is a low-key venue for Sri
Lankan dance, but the performance is the equal of the other venues and the crowds
somewhat less.
You can also hear Kandyan drummers every day at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic
(p145) and the other temples surrounding it – their drumming signals the start and fin-
ish of the daily puja (offering or prayers).