The
h
i
ll Coun
T
r
y
The
h
i
ll Coun
T
r
y
gETT
iN
g
A
R
OUND
The
h
i
ll Coun
T
r
y
Around Kandy
8 Getting Around
BUS
Buses to outlying parts of Kandy and nearby
towns such as Peradeniya, Ampitiya, matale and
Kegalle leave from near the clock tower.TA XI
With metered air-con taxis, Radio Cabs
(%223 3322) is a comfortable alternative to
three-wheelers. You may have to wait some
time for your cab, especially if it’s raining and
demand is heavy. With taxis (vans) that are not
metered, settle on a price before you start your
journey.THREE-WHEELER
The standard cost for a three-wheeler from the
train station to the southeast end of the lake is
Rs 100 to Rs 150. Drivers will ask foreign tourists
for much more, but if you stick to your guns you’ll
get something approximating the local price.Around Kandy
% 081
There are a few things worth seeing around
Kandy that can be done as a half-day trip.1 ights & ActivitiesS
oPeradeniya Botanic Gardens gARDENS
(map p 159 ; http://www.botanicgardens.gov.lk; adult/child
Rs 1100/550; h7.30am-5pm) At one time these
beautiful botanical gardens were reserved
exclusively for Kandyan royalty. Today even
commoners are allowed into what are, at 60
hectares, the largest and most impressive
botanic gardens in Sri Lanka.
The many highlights include a fine collec-
tion of orchids and a stately avenue of royal
palms. Another big hit is the giant Javan fig
tree on the great lawn. Covering 2500 sq me-
tres, it’s like a giant, living geodesic dome.
On weekends and holidays the gardens
are packed with romantically inclined local
tourists, and it can be hard to move without
tripping over yet another canoodling young
couple.
If food is more a priority than love, you’ll
find an overpriced cafeteria (mains Rs 550 to
Rs 1000) about 500m north of the entrance,
serving Western and Sri Lankan food on a
roofed verandah. A better option is to stock
up on picnic items. Just keep a close eye on
the insistent posse of local dogs.
Bus 644 (Rs 15) from Kandy’s clock-tower
bus stop goes to the gardens. A three-wheeler
from Kandy is around Rs 700 return; a van is
around Rs 1500. Many taxi drivers incorpo-rate a visit to the gardens with the Pinnewa-
la Elephant Orphanage (p 144 ) or the Kandy
temple loop.Kandy War Cemetery CEmETERY
(map p 159 ; Deveni Rajasinghe; by donation;
h10am-noon & 1-6pm) This small and beau-
tifully melancholic cemetery is maintained
by the Commonwealth War Graves Commis-
sion. It is the final resting place for those
who died defending Sri Lanka during WWII.Temples
There are several interesting temples around
Kandy. Visiting them provides not just an
insight into Sri Lankan religious culture but
also a jolly good excuse for a romp around
some exquisitely pretty countryside. This
loop takes in three 14th-century Hindu-
Buddhist temples and you’ll pass by the en-
trance to the botanic gardens, allowing you
to slot them into your busy day as well. If
exclusively using public transport there’s a
lot of walking involved, so you could narrow
down your visit to one or two of the tem-
ples. Many people rent a three-wheeler for
the day; expect to pay around Rs 3000 from
Kandy. If you’re combining walking and pub-
lic transport you’ll need to ask the way occa-
sionally, as the loop is not signposted.Embekka Devale HiNDU TEmPlE
(map p 159 ; admission Rs 300) Dedicated to the
worship of the Hindu deity Mahasen, this
beautiful temple with its finely carved wood-
en pillars depicting swans, eagles, wrestling
men and dancing women, was constructed in
the 14th century. The best carvings are in the
so-called drummers hall.
To get here by public transport catch the
frequent bus 643 (to Vatadeniya via Embek-
ka) from near the Kandy clock tower (Rs 38).
The village of Embekka is about 7km beyond
the botanic gardens (about an hour from
Kandy). From the village it’s a pleasant rural
stroll of about 1km to the temple.Lankatilake Temple BUDDHiST, HiNDU TEmPlE
(map p 159 ; admission Rs 300) This temple,
mounted on a rocky bluff, is divided into
two halves – one half Buddhist and one half
Hindu. It features a Buddha image, Kandy-
period paintings, rockface inscriptions and
stone elephant figures. A caretaker or monk
will unlock the shrine if it’s not already
open. A perahera takes place in August. The
setting is as impressive as the temple.
From Embekka Devale to here is a 3km
stroll beside rice paddies; you’ll see the