sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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East of Kandy

the air you breathe at this divine boutique
hotel, which was once the family home of
a Kandyan chief, literally tastes perfumed.
Now fully restored, this divine boutique ho-
tel, which is decorated with colonial Dutch
antiques, ticks all the honeymoon require-
ment boxes. A garden infinity pool segues to
emerald-green rice paddies.
Note that rooms do not have air-con and
there’s a two-night minimum stay. No chil-
dren under 12 years are allowed.

Kandy Samadhicentre BOUTiQUE HOTEl $$$
(%447 0925; http://www.thekandysamadhicentre.com;
Kukul Oya Rd, Kandy; r US$100-300) Part bou-
tique ecolodge and part Ayurvedic centre,
this could be the most relaxing place to stay
around Kandy. Thirteen pavilions dot a for-
ested hillside, and each room is decorated
with Asian textiles and four-poster beds.
Based on room quality alone we think it’s
overpriced, but judging by the comments in
the guestbook, we’re in the minority.
Food is both organic and vegetarian
(dinner US$15), and no alcohol is served.
Yoga (US$25) and massage (US$40) are
also available. A three-wheeler to the lodge
(50 minutes east of Kandy) costs Rs 1800;
arrange pick-up when making your booking.

Amaya Hills RESORT $$$
(map p 159 ; %447 4022; http://www.amayaresorts.com;
Heerassagala; s/d incl breakfast from US$146/156;
aiWs) Perched in the hills, 20 minutes’
drive southwest of Kandy, this 100-room
hotel incorporates a stunning open lobby, a
clifftop swimming pool, and very comforta-
ble rooms with lots of warm wooden tones
and a Kandyan design motif.

E ast of Kandy

Kandy is an important transport hub, with
most travellers going west to Colombo,
north to the Ancient Cities, or south to the
rest of the Hill Country. But it’s also possi-
ble to go east to Mahiyangana and Badulla,
and to Monaragala en route to Arugam Bay
and Gal Oya National Park. Further north-
east, Batticaloa can be reached by bus from
Kandy.
The Buddha is said to have preached at
Mahiyangana; a dagoba marks the spot.
There are two roads to Mahiyangana. The
A26 north road goes past the Victoria Golf
Club and the Victoria Reservoir to Madu-
goda, before twisting downhill through 18
hairpin bends to the Mahaweli lowlands and

the dry-zone plains. It’s one of the country’s

hairiest bus rides. Going up you worry about

overheating and going down it’s all about

the brakes. Many vehicles didn’t make it and

now lie in the jungle beneath.

Drivers prefer the road along the south-

ern shores of the Victoria and Randenigala

Reservoirs, which is much faster and in bet-

ter condition. To travel from Kandy to the

hills of Uva Province (including towns such

as Ella and Haputale), it’s quicker to take

this road and then the route south to Badul-

la than to go via Nuwara Eliya.

Knuckles Range

ELEVATION 1863M

So named because the range’s peaks look like

a closed fist, this massif is home to pockets

of rare montane forest. The area, which offers

fabulous hiking and birdwatching possibil-

ities, remains relatively unknown to foreign

visitors and is one of the best areas in the Hill

Country to get off the beaten tourist path.

If you are coming here in order to hike

then you’ll need to be well prepared. A

knowledgeable guide is virtually essential.

Hotels in the Knuckles Range can organ-

ise guided hiking trips. In Kandy, see Sumo-

ne and Ravi at Sri Lanka Trekking (p151). A

guide for the high peaks is compulsory, and

some serious wet-weather gear and some

leech protection are essential. For anything

more ambitious than a couple of hours’ stroll

around the foothills, you will need to be to-

tally self-sufficient, with camping equipment

and food.

The foothills of the Knuckles are covered

in small villages and walking in this area is

open to anyone. The high massif, though, is a

protected zone and entry costs Rs 650. Tick-

ets cannot be purchased at the gate, but will

normally be obtained by your guide from a

forestry department office.

4 leeping & EatingS

Brookside Resort HOTEl $

(%562 4933; http://www.brooksideresort.lk; Dumbara

v alley, Elkaduwa; d with air-con Rs 5250, without

air-con Rs 2000-3000; a) This place, with its

partially obscured mountain views, is a fair

choice. Communal areas are chock-a-block

full of wicker chairs and shelves of knick-

knacks, and the rooms are plain and smart.

It often hosts noisy wedding parties. Staff

speak very little English and seem a little

baffled by foreigners but perhaps that’s only

fair enough.