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(Elle) #1
Jaf fna & the
Rediscovered North

17


In Jaffna (p 262 ), everything
seems different, especially the lan-
guage: the rapid-fire staccato of spoken
Tamil is a real change from singsong Sin-
hala. So too the cuisine: singularly spiced
and, in season, complemented by legend-
ary mangoes. And perhaps even the light: it
has a distinctive quality, reflected as deep
garden greens in Jaffna’s suburbs. Revel
in the uniqueness of Jaffna, including the
towering, ornate Hindu temples. And don’t
miss Jaffna’s isolated islands and their
end-of-the-earth appeal. Hindu temple, Jaffna

Colonial Legacy


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Yes, the Brits were chased out at
independence in 1948, but their
legacy lives on in much more than an often
impenetrable bureaucracy addicted to
forms. Colombo (p 56 ) has wide, tree-
shaded streets where you’ll see the struc-
tures of the empire at their most magnifi-
cent. The National Museum building is
redolent with empire. Look around a little
and you’ll find the colonial legacies of the
Dutch and Portuguese as well. Just head
to restored quarters of Fort and w a n d e r,
pausing at the hugely popular Old Dutch
Hospital. Cargills main store (p59), Colombo

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