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links are excellent: Habarana has the nearest
train station to both Dambulla and Sigiriya
and sits on a busy crossroads.
Elephant rides around the tank can be
arranged for a pricey US$20 to US$30 per
person per hour. In the creek near town you
can watch mahouts scrubbing down their
elephants; guides and most locals can point
the way.
4 leeping & EatingS
In the last few years many new upmarket
places have opened around Habarana. The
town itself also has some good hotels, though
budget places are limited.
Habarana Inn GUES tHoUSE $
(%227 0010; http://www.habaranainnsrilanka.com; Dam-
bulla rd; r rs 3000; aW) An aging structure
that still has some charm, but is really start-
ing to show its (40) years. The rooms, all with
mosquito nets and fans, are clean and simply
furnished (book either 1 or 2, which face a
very pretty rear garden). Meals are available.
Galkadawala loDGE $$
(%077 373 2855; http://www.galkadawala.com; s/d incl
breakfast from US$77/84; aiW) Harmoniously
built in a forest setting from recycled materi-
als, this remote eco-lodge is perfect for wildlife
enthusiasts, with nature (outstanding birdlife
and the odd elephant) very much on your
doorstep – which is the local tank. Maulie, your
amiable and intelligent host, is very knowl-
edgeable about the area and Galkadawala’s
vegetarian (only) food is a real highlight.
It’s at the end of a dirt track, 11km west of
Habarana.
The Heritage Habarana HotEl $$
(%227 0003; http://www.ceylonhotelscorporation.com;
s/d incl breakfast US$66/72; aW) Formerly the
Rest House, this attractive historic structure
has been very sensitively renovated and offers
high comfort levels and an excellent location
in the heart of town. Its four rooms boast
original (turquoise) window shutters and
are fronted by a long shaded verandah. Din-
ing in the excellent in-house Mini-Avanhala
cafe-restaurant is a pleasure too.
Mutu Village GUES tHoUSE $$
(%077 269 4579; http://www.mutuvillage.com; Kashyapag-
ama; s/d US$40/48; aW) This new guesthouse
is run by a very accommodating couple: Mutu
is a superb cook and Ajith takes good care of
guests. The environment is great, with a lovely
garden to enjoy, away from the hubbub and
traffic in town. Guides for wildlife spotting
and birding can be organised, as well as driv-
ers for exploring the region. It’s a ten-minute
walk south of the main junction.
The Other Corner loDGE $$$
(%011 739 9500, 077 374 9904; http://www.tocsrilanka.
com; s/d incl breakfast US$85/110; aiWs) An
earthy alternative to stark modernist hotels
and minimalist rooms, the Other Corner is an
excellent new (solar-powered) eco-lodge. It’s
set in extensive, shady grounds with herb gar-
dens; the nine gorgeous mud-brick, thatched
cabanas are linked by sandy trails. All food is
prepared freshly to order (no buffets!). The ex-
cellent resident naturalist leads birdwatching
walks. It’s 1.5km south of the centre.
Aliya l UXUrY HotEl $$$
(%204 0400; http://www.aliya-resort-and-spa-sigiriya-
sri-lanka.en.ww.lk; r from US$121; aiWs) A
bombastic new temple of luxury that’s raised
the bar very high indeed. The layout – a dra-
matic entrance, an elevated lobby overlooking
Sigiriya, a lovely open-sided restaurant and
village-like collection of stylish chalets – has
been meticulously planned. The 30m infinity
pool (with rock views at the end of each lap!)
is breathtaking. Service and food are superb.
Rates are actually very reasonable consid-
ering the facilities. Be aware that such is the
scale of the place (96 rooms and suites) it’s
not for those seeking an intimate experience.
Located 4km southwest of town.
Cinnamon Lodge l UXUrY HotEl $$$
(%227 0012; http://www.cinnamonhotels.com; r from
US$135; aiWs) A very classy and profes-
sionally run hotel, with a Portuguese colonial
design and 11 hectares of lush landscaping.
A nature trail leads to a treehouse platform
for viewing birds, deer and monkeys. Rooms
are tastefully presented and comfortable.
Cinnamon is rightly renowned for its food
(everything from sushi to Sri Lankan) and
the lunchtime buffet spread (Rs 2500) is
exceptional.
The elegant main restaurant area is quite
something, with tables overlooking the lovely
pool.
Mini-Avanhala CAFE, wEStErN $$
(www.ceylonhotelscorporation.com; the Heritage
Habarana; mains rs 600-1100; W) The Heritage’s
cafe-restaurant is perched opposite the main
junction in town, so is perfect for people-
watching. There’s a classy, turn-back-the-
years ambience and a wide choice of food:
local-style curries, Western breakfasts (Rs
490), sandwiches, grilled meats and ‘devilled’
dishes. Those with a sweet tooth must check