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oGal Vihara MoNUMENt
This is a group of beautiful Buddha images
that probably marks the high point of Sinha-
lese rock carving. They are part of Parakram-
abahu’s northern monastery. The Gal Vihara
consists of four separate images, all cut from
one long slab of granite. At one time each was
enshrined within a separate enclosure.
The standing Buddha is 7m tall and is
said to be the finest of the series. The unusual
position of the arms and sorrowful facial ex-
pression led to the theory that it was an image
of the Buddha’s disciple Ananda, grieving for
his master’s departure for nirvana, since the
reclining image is next to it. The fact that it
had its own separate enclosure, along with the
discovery of other images with the same arm
position, has discredited this theory and it is
now accepted that all the images are of the
Buddha.
The reclining Buddha depicted entering
parinirvana (nirvana-after-death) is 14m long.
Notice the subtle depression in the pillow
under the head and the wheel symbol on the
pillow end. The other two images are both of
the seated Buddha. The one in the small rock
cavity is smaller and of inferior quality.Nelum Pokuna PoND
A track to the left from the northern stretch of
road leads to unusual Nelum Pokuna (Lotus
Pond), nearly 8m in diameter, which has five
concentric, descending rings of eight petals
each. The pool was probably used by monks.Tivanka Image House MoNUMENt
The northern road ends at Tivanka Image
House. Tivanka means ‘thrice bent’, and re-
fers to the fact that the Buddha image within
is in a three-curve position normally reserved
for female statues. The building is notable for
the carvings of energetic dwarfs cavorting
around the outside, and for the fine frescoes
within – the only Polonnaruwa murals to
have survived. Some of these date from a lat-
er attempt by Parakramabahu III to restore
Polonnaruwa, but others are much older.1 Southern Group
The small southern group is close to the com-
pound of top-end hotels. By bicycle it’s a pleas-
ant ride along the bund of the Topa Wewa.
You’ll likely find more cows (and their friends,
the cattle egret) than you will people here.Potgul Vihara MoNUMENt
Also known as the library dagoba, the Pot-
gul Vihara is an unusual structure. A thick-walled, hollow, dagoba-like building, it is
thought to have been used to store sacred
books. It’s effectively a circular gedige, and
four smaller solid dagobas arranged around
this central dome form the popular Sinhalese
quincunx arrangement of five objects in the
shape of a rectangle (one at each corner and
one in the middle).Statue S tAtUE
Standing nearly 4m high, this statue
displays an unusually lifelike human
representation, in contrast to the normally
idealised or stylised Buddha figures. Exact-
ly whom it represents is a subject of some
debate. One theory is that it’s the Indian
Vedic teacher, Agastya, holding a book. Or
alternatively, it could be the bearded, state-
ly figure is Parakramabahu I clasping the
‘yoke of kingship’. Or some say that the king
is simply holding a piece of papaya.
You’ll find it at the northern edge of the
group.1 Rest House Group
Concentrated a few steps to the north of the
Polonnaruwa Heritage Hotel are the ruins
of Nissanka Malla’s palace, which have al-
most been reclaimed by the earth. The Royal
Baths are the ruins nearest to Polonnaruwa
Heritage Hotel.King’s Council Chamber MoNUMENt
This is where the king’s throne, in the shape
of a stone lion, once stood (it’s now in Colom-
bo’s National Museum). Inscribed into each
column in the chamber is the name of the
minister whose seat was once beside it. The
mound nearby becomes an island when the
waters of the tank are high; on it are the ruins
of a small summer house used by the king.4 Sleeping
The Old Town is far less frenetic than the
New Town (whose hotels are generally rather
tired). Nearby Giritale is a good alternative,
rural base.Leesha Tourist Home H oMEStAY $
(%072 334 0591; [email protected]; 105/A
New town rd; r with fan/air-con rs 1800/2800;
aW) Good vibes are guaranteed at this fine
guesthouse thanks to the efforts of genial
owner Upali and his family. Rooms are well-
priced and sparkling clean, all with mosqui-
to nets and sprung matresses (though those
abutting the main road suffer some traffic
noise). It’s a sociable place with tables for