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circles. Impressions on the dagoba pediments
indicate the pillars originally numbered 176,
of which 41 still stand. Although some Sri
Lankan scholars believe these once supported
a conical wooden roof, there is no archaeolog-
ical evidence for this theory, nor does it follow
any known antecedent in South India, whose
dagobas were the prototypes for virtually all
Sinhalese dagobas.
1 Abhayagiri Monastery
For the sheer delight of exploring an ancient
city, much of it still enveloped in tropical for-
est, the 2000-year-old Abhayagiri Monastery
area can’t be beat.oAbhayagiri Dagoba BUDDHISt
Dating back to the 1st century BC, this colos-
sal dagoba was once the ceremonial focus of a
5000-strong monastery. Originally over 100m
high, it was one of the greatest structures in
the ancient world, its scale only matched by
the pyramids of Giza (and nearby Jetavanar-
ama). Today, after several reconstructions,
Abhayagiri Dagoba soars 75m above the for-
est floor. Visually, it’s stunning, and your first
glimpse of this brick monument (which is
shielded by surrounding forest) through a gap
in the trees is breathtaking.
The name means ‘Hill of Protection’ or
‘Fearless Hill’. In the Saddarma Rathnawaliya
scripture it says a statue of a golden bull con-
taining relics of the Buddha was buried in the
core of the stupa.
Abhayagiri Dagoba has some interesting
bas-reliefs, including one near the western
stairway of an elephant pulling up a tree. A
large slab with a Buddha footprint can be
seen on the northern side, and the easternand western steps have unusual moonstones
made from concentric stone slabs.Moonstone MoNUMENt
A ruined 9th-century school for monks north-
west of the Abhayagiri Dagoba is notable for
having the finest carved moonstone in Sri
Lanka; see how many species of animals you
can find in its elaborate carvings. This is a
peaceful wooded area full of butterflies, and
makes a good place to stop and cool off during
a tour of the ruins (there are drinks and snack
stands close by). Look for the fine steps featur-
ing plump little figures.
It forms part of a structure often mistak-
enly described as Mahasena’s Palace or the
Queen’s Pavilion.Ratnaprasada rUIN
Most of the 8th-century Ratnaprasada or
‘Gem Palace’ lies in ruins today, though it was
originally five stories high with a graceful,
tiered roof. At its entrance, however, you’ll
find a beautifully carved mura gala (guard-
stone), which depicts the Cobra King holding
a vase with a flowering branch, with a dwarf
attendant at his feet and his head framed by
a cobra hood.
In the 8th century a new order of tapova-
na (ascetic) monks settled in the fringes of
the city, among the lowest castes, the rubbish
dumps and the burial places. These monas-
teries were large but unadorned structures;
ornamentation was saved for toilets, now
displayed at the Archaeological Museum. The
monks of Ratnaprasada monastery gave sanc-
tuary to people in trouble with the authorities,
and this led to a major conflict with the king.
When court officials at odds with the king
took sanctuary in the Ratnaprasada, the king
sent his supporters to capture and executeANURADHAPURA’S NEW STUPA
Two thousand years after the first of the great dagobas was constructed, a huge new stupa,
Sandahiru Seya (Moon-Sun Temple), is emerging on the south side of Anuradhapura.
Commissioned by President Rajapaksa, work started in 2010.
Designed to reach 85m in height, with a circumference of 244m, it will rise above the
ancient dagobas of Jetavanarama and Abhayagiri (but will not surpass the original height
of these two monuments). Sandahiru Seya is being constructed from brick (mor than 30
million) and will be plastered then whitewashed when finished.
Controversially, this is just one of nine new stupas planned, on orders of the president
‘in appreciation of the noble service rendered by the armed forces and police to defeat
terrorism and bring lasting peace to the country’. However, some have objected to the
principle of dedicating a religious monument to the actions of the Sri Lankan military. The
government’s position is that most citizens have backed the scheme (and many have made
donations to the project).
Sandahiru Seya is scheduled to be completed by 2016.