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to be a formation of nine maidens. Hindu
deities and images of the Buddha are repre-
sented in the caves.
Outside the temple complex you can see
an abandoned dagoba at the top of a smooth
rocky outcrop. On the way up, to your right,
is an ancient inscription in the stone, said
to have been etched on King Dutugemunu’s
behalf. An easy 10-minute walk starts to the
right of this abandoned dagoba (as you are
walking up to it). Head past a modern pavil-
ion to an abandoned bungalow; nearby, on
the top of the cliff there are the most magnif-
icent views.
8 Getting There & Away
r di Vihara is situated east of the Kurunegala–i
Dambulla road, 2km from ridigama village.Kurunegala
%037 / POP 34,500
Kurunegala is a busy, congested market town
and transport hub between Colombo and
Anuradhapura, and Kandy and Puttalam. The
town itself is not interesting, but there are a
few diversions nearby.1 Sights
The large, smooth rocky outcrops that loom
over the town are a striking feature of this
city. Named for the animals they appear to
resemble (Tortoise Rock, Lion Rock etc), the
outcrops are, unsurprisingly, endowed with
mythological status. It’s said that they were
formed when animals that were endanger-
ing the free supply of water to the town were
turned into stone.
There’s a road going up Etagala, a large
black boulder on the eastern side of the city.
The views are extensive from here. On the
way up you pass a small shrine, Ibbagala
Vihara, and at the head of the road there is a
temple named after the rock itself.4 leeping & EatingS
Few travellers stay here but there are a couple
of accommodation and dining options.Hotel Viveka HotEl $
(%222 2897; http://www.hotelviveka.com; 64 North lake
rd; r fan/air-con rs 2200/2500; a) An elegant
whitewashed villa with a verandah overlook-
ing the lake in a shady part of town. Its five
rooms have been recently renovated and have
modern bathrooms. Viveka doubles as Ku-
runegala’s most convivial bar and restaurant
(mains Rs 300 to 500).Littlemore Estate Bungalows loDGE $$
(%072 231 9443; [email protected]; 3km
west of Pellandeniya village; r US$60; aWs) An
intriguing new accommodation option, Little-
more Estate is a 50-hectare coconut plantation
bordered by paddy fields and woodland with
a healthy local peacock population. There
are three very tastefully presented modern
rooms, and staff will show you around the es-
tate and explain all about coconut harvesting.
Meals are traditional Sri Lankan.
It’s 9km northwest of Kurunegala, the
turnoff is at the village of Pellandeniya on the
A10 highway.In & Out S rI lANKAN $
(18 Puttalam rd; mains rs 150-400; h7am-10pm;
a) An unexpectedly modish cafe-restaurant
close to the bus station with good Sri Lankan
and Western dishes. Omelettes, sandwiches,
and Chinese-style meals are available, as well
as rice ‘n’ curry and some good desserts.8 Getting There & Away
Buses depart from a chaotic, fume-filled bus sta-
tion in the very centre of town. Frequent services
include the following:
Anuradhapura express rs 270, three hours
Colombo express rs 340, 3½ hours
Kandy express rs 90, one hour
Negombo rs 170, 3½ hours
t rains depart from a station 2km southwest from
the town centre.