sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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Uga Jungle
Beach Resort resor T $$$
(%011-567 1000; http://www.jungle-beach-resort-trinco
malee-sri-lanka.en.ww.lk; Km 27, Kuchchaveli; cab-

ins from Us$130; aWs) (^) S Eco-style resort
built from natural materials (timber and
thatch) that enjoys a wonderful location just
off a truly spectacular virgin beach. All the
magnificent rooms have been sensitively
constructed (only two trees were cut when
the hotel was developed) so there’s lots of
shade, greenery and resident birdlife. The
pool area is gorgeous, ringed by foliage and
bordering the restaurant.
You’ll find excellent Western and local
food at surprisingly moderate prices. Guests
can enjoy free yoga sessions and there’s a
spa. It’s 9km north of Nilaveli.
Anilana Nilaveli hoTel $$$
(%011-203 0900; http://www.anilana.com/nilaveli; r/
ste from Us$139/157; aiWs) Setting new
standards in Nilaveli, this hip hotel (which
opened in April 2014) ticks all the right con-
temporary boxes with sleek accommodation
finished in subtle shades of cream: all with
gorgeous bathrooms and a balcony facing
the beach (or one of the two huge pools).
There’s a wonderful deck for languid alfres-
co meals, and excellent Asian and Western
food.
Check out the spa for Ayurvedic treat-
ments to revitalise the skin and senses.
Pigeon Island
Beach Resort hoTel $$$
(%492 0633; http://www.pigeonislandresort.com; s/d/tr
with air-con incl breakfast from Us$120/150/203;
aWs) Beachside hotel with rooms in a
long two-storey building that are attrac-
tive but pricey (only suites have sea views).
Worth a visit for lunch or dinner as the food
is great (meals Rs 700 to 2000) and the din-
ing and lounge areas, with their antique
furniture, wicker lamps and breezes, are
charming.

8 Getting There & Away

Flag down any passing bus for Trincomalee

( rs 26, 30 minutes, every 20 minutes). A

three-wheeler will cost around rs 800 or rs 5 00

to Uppuveli.

NORTH OF NILAVELI

The beautiful B424 coastline road north of Nilaveli follows the shore, with the ocean on

one side and lagoons inland. It’s a great day out on a motorbike, or for those with the

lung power, a bicycle (it’s very flat). Public transport is limited on this route.

Heading north there’s little of interest for the first 6km, but after you cross the river

estuary at Kumpurupiddi the road runs very close to the beach, and then skirts a huge

shallow lagoon on the west. A system of dykes and channels here enables sea water to

be pumped into salt pans and salt to be harvested in the dry season. Rows and rows of

identical houses are grouped around these salt flats, constructed by Indian charities to

house communities hit by the tsunami and civil war.

Continuing north, you’ll find the intriguing (signposted) archaeological site of Kuch-

chaveli at the Km 34 marker on the highway. Occupying a rocky point that juts into the

Indian Ocean are the modest remains of a brick stupa. From the stupa’s elevated position

there are spectacular views over a turquoise sea, across the white foam of the rollers,

with stunning sandy beaches to the north and south. The land here is controlled by the

Navy but open to the public, and the two or three officers based at this lonely spot are

usually very welcoming.

Around the Km 40 post the road traverses another lovely river estuary, the sandy

shoreline dotted with colourful fishing boats. Then you pass through an area of dense

mangrove forests, home to monitor lizards and prolific birdlife (including herons, storks

and waders) before reaching an army checkpoint. From here it’s a short trip to the iso-

lated but friendly village of Pulmoddai at Km 54, which sits just inland from the Kokkilai

Lagoon, an important bird sanctuary. Here the Asam Hotel (meals rs 150-250) is your

best bet for lunch, a popular place with rice and curry, and drinks.

Buses (Rs 75, 1½ hours, six daily) connect Pulmoddai with Trincomalee, passing

through Nilaveli and Uppuveli en route. Services (Rs 88, two hours, three daily) also head

to Mullaitivu, opening up an intriguing route to the north.