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Mannar’s one main east–west highway is
paved and in good condition. Heading west
from Mannar Town you’ll pass a cluster of
baobab trees after about 3km. Around the
8 Km marker is Our Lady of the Martyrs,
a church and huge meditation hall where
many hundreds gather to pray and meditate
(Thursdays, 4-7pm).
Continuing west you’ll pass a vast lagoon
(look out for flamingos in February) and the
small town of Pesalai before approaching the
port of Talaimannar, 38km from Mannar
Town. Until 1990 ferries departed from here
to Rameswaram, India, and it’s hoped con-
nections might again resume when the rail
track across the island is completed, perhaps
in late 2014.
The island’s western extreme is marked by
a lonely lighthouse on land occupied by the
navy. Offshore is Adam’s Bridge – a chain of
reefs, sandbanks and islets that nearly con-
nects Sri Lanka to the Indian subcontinent.
In the Ramayana these were the stepping
stones that the monkey king Hanuman used
in his bid to help rescue Rama’s wife Sita
from Rawana, the demon king of Lanka. Boat
trips (operated by the navy, leaving from Ta-
laimannar) to the first of the bridge’s sand-
bars were suspended at the time of research
but may again resume.
There’s good swimming at the village of
Urumale, 1km before the lighthouse, where
fishermen specialise in catching stingrays –
you’ll see (and smell) chunks drying in the
sun here. Boats line the beach in front of the
village, but there are empty sands a short
walk away to the east.

4 leeping & EatingS
Baobab Guest House guesTHouse $
(%222 3155; 70 field st, Mannar Town; s/d with fan
& shared bathroom rs 750/1000, with air-con & pri-
vate bathroom rs 1750/3000; aW) A cheerful,
welcoming place, Baobab has a quiet loca-
tion, and an attractive living/dining room
for socialising and tasty meals (order ahead).
The traditional red-oxide floors and window
screens add a touch of class. It’s a 10-minute
walk from the centre of town. As there are
only four rooms, book well ahead.

Mannar Guest House guesTHouse $
(%222 2006; http://www.mannarguesthouse.com;
55/12 uppukulam, Mannar Town; s/d with fan rs
2000/2500, with air-con rs 2500/3000; aW) In
a mixed Hindu/Muslim residential neigh-
bourhood, this well-run guesthouse has
eight small rooms, all with twin beds and

private bathrooms. The English-speaking

owner’s family live at the rear of the com-

pound and can usually provide meals if

organised in advance.

Four Tees Rest Inn loDge $

(%077 557 1206, 323 0008; station rd; hs/d/tr

with fan & shared bathroom rs 1000/1500/2000,

r with air-con rs 3000; a) Nine kms west of

Mannar Town, this likeable lodge offers a

quiet, rural base including a lovely garden

dotted with mature trees. Particularly popu-

lar with birders, manager Mr Lawrence has

lots of tips to ensure you make the most of

your stay and can organise birdwatching ex-

cursions. Very good value meals (around Rs

300) are available.

It’s best suited to those with their own

transport, though when the train line reo-

pens there will be a station on its doorstep.

Shell Coast Resort HoTel $$$

(%077 144 9062; http://www.shellcoastresort.com; 6km

southwest of Pesalai; s/d rs 6250/14,250, cabana

r s 14,250-19,000; aWs) Offering the only

beachside accommodation in Mannar, this

new resort offers impressive octagonal wood-

en cabanas with terraces and attractive rooms

with shared verandahs. The rustic setting will

suit those searching for a back-to-nature vibe,

however the beach is in need of a clean-up.

Rates include breakfast.

Palmyrah House HoTel $$$

(%011-259 4467; http://www.palmyrahhouse.com; Karis-

al; s/d/tr from us$113/144/174; aWs) Offers

THIRUKKETEESWARAM KOVIL

On the mainland, 13km east of Mannar

Town, Thirukketeeswaram Kovil is one of

the pancha ishwaram, the five historical

Sri Lankan Shiva temples established to

protect the island from natural disaster.

It’s an imposing site, with a towering,

colourful gopuram. Ranged around the

temple are pavilions containing five

gigantic floats, called juggernauts, that

are wheeled out each February for the

impressive Maha Sivarathiri festival.

Thirukketeeswaram Kovil is 4.5km

down a side road off the Mannar–

Vavuniya road between the 76km and

77 Km markers. Buses from Mannar

are frequent; three-wheelers charge Rs

1000 for the round trip.