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Mr M Chandresakaran’s stall, by the banan-
as, sells traditional Jaffna cigars.Art Gallery A rTs & CrAfTs
( racca ln) Jaffna’s first art gallery is in a strik-
ing white structure and showcases work by
contemporary Sri Lankan artists.Rosarian Convent wINe
(Thoma Monastery; 48 Colombuthurai rd; h8.30am-
1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-sat) The convent makes
Rosetto ‘wine’ (Rs 300 per bottle). Sweet and
laced with cinnamon and cloves, it tastes like
German gluhwein. There’s also startlingly
coloured grape ‘juice’ and ‘nelli crush’ (Rs
180), both nonalcoholic, flavourful fruit cor-
dial concentrates.Ms Ruby Sorupan CloTHINg
(%320 5358; 89 Point Pedro Rd; h10am-5pm) A
kindly and competent seamstress, Ms Ruby
Sorupan will whip you up a salwar kurta
(dress-like tunic and trouser outfit) or choli
(sari blouse) for about Rs 200 or so. Only Mr
Sorupan speaks English, so try to visit when
he’s around.Anna Coffee Coffee
(No 4, Modern Market; h8.30am-6pm Mon-sat)
Sri Lankan coffee (Rs 750 per kg) and tea
(from Rs 380 per kg) from a venerable old
shop in the market district.Future World ele CTroNICs
(%221 9655; http://www.futureworld.com.lk; 70-72 stan-
ley rd; hMon- sat 9.30am-5pm) Genuine Apple
computers and accessories and a service
centre for repairs.8 Information
Jaffna’s many atMs include Commercial Bank
(Hospital rd) and HNB (Hospital rd & stanley rd).
Eelavar.com (www.eelavar.com/jaffna) Inform-
ative website with good sections on Jaffnese
history, culture and arts.
Post Office (Postal Complex, KKS Rd; h7am-
5pm Mon-sat)
Selva Telecommunications Centre (124
Temple rd; internet access per hr rs 60;
h7.30am-8.30pm) fast connections, with
booths for international calls.8 Getting There & Away
AIR
Jaffna’s Palali airport is 17km north of town,
deep within a high-security military zone. It’s not
served by public transport but both airlines offer
shuttle bus connections.
Fits Air (%222 3790; http://www.fitsair.com; 40
Kandy rd) flies to/from ratmalana airport,south of Colombo (rs 18,000, 75 minutes, daily),
and also to Trincomalee (rs 5000, 35 minutes,
weekly). free drop-offs and pick-ups to your
hotel are included.
Helitours (%011-314 4944, 011-314 4244; http://www.
helitours.lk; Hospital rd; h10am-1pm) Pas-
senger flights – on air -orce planes – to/from
Palali airport and Colombo’s Ratmalana airport
( rs 7750, three weekly, 75 minutes). Also offers
a service from Trincomalee (rs 3750, three
weekly, 30 minutes). An obligatory shuttle bus
departs from Helitours’ town office. you need to
arrive two hours ahead.BUS
Long-Distance
f om the r CTB bus stand (%222 2281) and neigh-
bouring private bus stand (Kasturiya rd) there
are frequent long-distance services:
Anuradhapura rs 252, five hours, three daily
Colombo rs 670, 12 hours, eight daily
Kandy rs 352, nine hours, nine daily
Mannar rs 200, 3½ hours, 10 daily
Trincomalee rs 324, seven hours, five daily
Vavuniya rs 198, four hours, every 30 minutes
n merous private bus companies offer u over-
night services to Colombo. Around a dozen
offices are all grouped together on hospital Rd,
including VT Express (Hospital rd). rates are rs
700/900/1300 for an ordinary/semi-luxury/
luxury bus and the journey time is 10 to 12 hours.
Jaffna Peninsula
Destinations around the peninsula (including the
islands) are served by both CTB and private mini-
buses from the CTB bus stand and stops close by
on Powerhouse Rd. Be warned that local buses
are slow and can be infrequent; check return
times before you head out. services include the
following:
Kairanagar via Vaddukkodai (782, 786) rs 48,
1½ hours, every 30 minutes
Kayts (777) rs 45, one hour, every 30 to 60
minutes (bus 780 also goes here but takes
longer)
Keerimalai spring (private minibuses 82, 87,
89) rs 40, one hour, every 20 minutes
Kurikadduwan (KKD; 776) rs 74, 1½ hours,
hourly
Point Pedro via Nelliady (750) rs 69, 1½ hours,
every 30 minutes
Point Pedro via Valvettiturai (VVT; 751) rs 73,
1½ hours, every 30 to 60 minutes
Tellippalai via Chunnakam (for Thurkkai
Amman Kovil, Kantarodai, Keerimalai spring;
769) rs 36, every 30 minutesCAR & MOTORBIKE
Many travellers prefer the freedom of renting
a motorbike or car to explore the peninsula
and islands. traffic is light and roads are now in