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Jaffna Pen
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Hindu Congress, and the Naguleswaram tem-
ple has reopened, along with a new madham
for pilgrims. Work is ongoing to revive the
complex further, and ensure Naguleswaram
and its sacred spring is once again a place of
pilgrimage and prayer.
Legend has it that the sacred Keerimalai
spring became famous after the 7th-century
visit by a Chola princess: not only was her
digestive disorder instantly healed when she
bathed in the waters and prayed to Muru-
gan, but so was her facial deformity, which,
according to one source, had the ‘likeness of
a horse’s head’. Even if your face doesn’t look
like a horse, the spring is a beautiful little
spot: the men’s side has a picturesque stepped
pool of bright aquamarine water set against
the sea, while the women have a smaller pool
nearby surrounded by tall walls (for the best,
really). The waters are supposed to be healing,
and there are changing rooms on-site; wom-
en should bathe in something modest. Jaffna
buses/minibuses are Rs 30 to the spring, or
get a three-wheeler from the Tellippalai bus
stand for Rs 350/600 one way/round trip.
If you’re heading east after Keerimalai
you’ll have to first return south along the
AB16 highway to Chunnakam before you
can cut across via Puttur towards Valvettitu-
rai and Point Pedro. You’ll pass the excellent,
old-fashioned Sri Murugan Café (Vakaiadi; rice
& curry rs 180; h5am-9pm) for rice and curry
3km west of Puttur.
For a more scenic drive, consider heading
west along the newly upgraded coastal road
from Keerimalai spring, which hugs a palm-
fringed shoreline. There are no real sights
this way, but the scenery is sublime, with a
sparkling ocean offshore. Inevitably there are
also plenty of reminders of the war, including
bombed churches and battle-ravaged build-
ings. The navy now occupies a lot of the coast-
al land in these parts, and is busy developing
a couple of hotels for tourism. At the tiny
settlement of Ponnalai, 16km from Keerima-
lai, you’ll reach the causeway for the island of
Karainagar.
Valvettiturai
On the way to Valvettiturai (VVT) is the
charming, waterfront Selvachannithy
Murugan Kovil (also known as Sella San-
nathy Kovil) in Thondaimanaru. Like so
many places on the peninsula it was severe-
ly damaged during the war, but today the
important Murugan temple is a scenic stop,
with a lively puja.
The gorgeous coast road leads east to
VVT, once a rich smuggling town but now
most famous as the birthplace of LTTE lead-
er Vellupillai Prabhakaran. Known for his
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Hammenhiel Fort
Ferry
High Security
Zone
Jaffna
Lagoon
Palk Strait
Eluvaitivu
Analaitivu
Nainativu
(Nagadipa)
Karaitivu
Puliyantivu
Mandaitivu
Punkudutivu
Velanai
Chaatty
Beach
Munai
Beach
Casuarina
Beach
Ayanar
Kovil
Palali Airport
Punkudutivu
Karampan
Kayts
Suruvil Velanai
Pooneryn
Point Pedro
Kodikamam
Valvettiturai
(VVT)
Nelliady
Kankesanturai
(KKS)
Tellippalai
Avarangal
Manipay Chunnakam Puttur
Vaddukkodai
Karainagar
Kurikadduwan (KKD)
Chavakachcheri
Jaffna
4
7
3
8
10
9
2
13
12
1
6
5
11
3
1
C
B C
2
3
1
2
B
A
A D
D
Jaffna Peninsula e#^0105 mile0ksm
D
Neduntivu
(4km)