sri-lanka-13-full-pdf-ebook.pdf

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you want. The terrain is very flat so it’s perfect
for cycling or covering by scooter; both can be
loaded onto ferries between islands.

Velanai

Velanai island, connected by a causeway to
Jaffna, is sometimes referred to as Leiden, its
Dutch name, or Kayts, after the village on its
northeast coast. A beautiful but sparsely pop-
ulated place, it has a deserted feel thanks to
the war, and many structures remain in ruins.
If you approach Velanai from Jaffna, you’ll
pass a turnoff for the half-built Sabins Blue
Ocean Resort ([email protected]; r us$15),
which has a slightly forgotten air (don’t expect
much in the way of service) and a few basic
rooms, but a lovely beachside location.
A few clicks further on, Chaatty Beach is no
white-sand wonder, but it’s passable for swim-
ming and has changing rooms, picnic gazebos
and snack vendors. It’s just 11km from Jaffna.
If you approach Velanai from Karainagar,
the ferry will drop you at the eerie, tumble-
weed settlement of Kayts, between a dozen
scuttled fishing boats. This lonely place had
far more bustle in centuries past as this was
the port from where elephants were shipped
to India. Kayts today is tiny but has some
noteworthy colonial buildings, including
three churches near the jetty. Walk straight
up Sunuvil Rd and take your first right to
get to the Portuguese St James’; if you turn
left instead you’ll hit St Joseph’s; and if you
continue up Sunuvil Rd, you’ll see St Mary’s
on the left. Just beyond St Mary’s, the first as-
phalt lane to the right leads 600m to a placid
waterfront cemetery with views of offshore
Fort Hammenhiel (now a luxury hotel). At
the island’s northwest is Karampan, where

Navy-operated ferries depart for Analaitivu

and Eluvaitivu.

Punkudutivu

A long, delightful causeway links Velanai to

the island of Punkudutivu. Notice the lagoon

fishermen who use wade-out traps and sail

little wind-powered canoes. Punkudutivu

village, the scene of minor riots in December

2005, has one of Jaffna’s most screechingly

colourful Hindu temples, while many old

houses lie in various stages of decay. Smaller

causeways link Punkudutivu to the ferry port

at Kurikadduwan (KKD) for Navy-run boats

to Neduntivu and Nainativu.

Nainativu (Nagadipa)

Known as Nainativu in Tamil and Nagadipa

in Sinhalese, this 6km-long lozenge of palmy-

ra groves is holy to both Buddhist and Hindu

pilgrims.

Right in front of you as you step off the

jetty is the Naga Pooshani Amman Kovil

complex, an airy Hindu temple set amid ma-

ture neem trees. The main temple deity is the

naga goddess Meenakshi, a consort of Shiva.

(The term naga refers variously to serpent de-

ity figures and to the ancient inhabitants of

the island.) Women wishing to conceive come

here seeking blessings, delivered during the

trance-inducing midday puja. An impressive

festival is held in June or July every year.

Walk 10 minutes south along the coast road

to find the Nagadipa temple, the North’s

only major Buddhist pilgrimage site. Accord-

ing to legend, the Buddha came to the island

to prevent war between a naga king and his

nephew over ownership of a gem-studded

throne. The solution: give it to the temple

THE MILITARY & TOURISM IN THE NORTH

Sri Lanka has a heavily militarised society, particularly in the north of the country, which

was a war zone for decades and where 16 of the 19 army divisions are still stationed.

Since the end of the war in 2009, the military has taken over large chunks of coastal land.

The government considers this necessary to safeguard national security; protest groups

deem many actions land grabs for profiteering. What’s not in dispute is that villagers have

been removed from their ancestral land and the military is increasingly involved in tourism

in the north.

Some hotels, such as Fort Hammenhiel (p276), are located on well-established mil-

itary bases and are less contentious. Others, including the Thalsevana Resort (www.

thalsevanaresort.com) near Kankesanturai in the Jaffna peninsula, have been built on land

previously held by villagers. The Navy controls all ferry services around Jaffna’s islands and

boat trips to Adam’s Bridge, off Mannar. Airline Helitours (p 270 ) is owned and operated by

the Sri Lankan Air Force.

Where possible, we have attempted to indicate which businesses are military-owned.