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instead. The precious chair and original tem-
ple disappeared long ago, but today there is
an attractive silver-painted dagoba. Just be-
hind, three happy-looking Buddhas sit in a
domed temple.
Poya (full-moon) days are observed by both
Hindus and Buddhists on the island; expect
crowds. Navy-run ferries (Rs 50, 20 minutes)
depart KKD on Punkudutivu island for Nain-
ativu every 15 minutes or so from 6.30am to
5.30pm.Neduntiv u (Delft)
The intriguing, windswept island of Nedun-
tivu (Delft) is 10km across the water southwest
of KKD on Punkudutivu island. Around 6000
people live here, but it feels deserted, with dirt
roads running through coconut-palm groves,
aquamarine water and white sand, and a rich
diversity of flora that includes neem, a rare,
ancient baobab tree, and vines that you can
swing from. Hundreds of field-dividing walls
are hewn from chunks of brain and fan cor-
als, while Delft ponies descended from Dutch
mounts roam barren fields edged by rocky
coral shores. There is a giant rock that is said
to be growing and is therefore worshipped,
and a small, very ruined Dutch fort a short
walk from the ferry dock.
Manal Kanuttadi is a pretty beach 1km
from the dock where you could camp with
permission from the Navy. (There’s a small
shop near the dock selling water and snacks
but little in the way of real food available.)
In 2011 Basil Rajapaksa (the president’s
brother and economic development minister)
announced plans to ‘beautify the island into
a magnificient tourist attraction’ with resorts
and roads. However, there’s been no move-
ment on this as yet (possibly as Neduntivu is a
military-declared High Security Zone).
It’s impossible to explore Neduntivu with-
out transport. Three-wheelers/pick-ups (Rs
1500/3000 for three hours) can be rented for
island tours from the dock.
A crowded Sri Lankan Navy-operated ferry
(free, one hour) departs KKD daily at 9am, re-
turning at 2.30pm. Arrive 30 minutes before
(or earlier) to secure somewhere to sit, andexpect an uncomfortable, if memorable trip.
If you’re travelling by bus from Jaffna you’ll
need to catch the 6.40am departure to KKD
to make the ferry connection.Karaitivu
Karaitivu has two main things going for it:
access to Kayts and the trippy crossing from
Jaffna across a long, water-skimming cause-
way, with views of wading fishermen and
shrimp traps. Look right at the start of the
causeway to spy the towering gopuram of
Ponnalai Vishnu Kovil through the palms.
Karaitivu’s Casuarina Beach is an at-
tractive stretch of sand with good swim-
ming and, as the name indicates, a shoreline
backed by mature casuarina trees. It’s popu-
lar with folk from Jaffna on weekends and
has a couple of snack bars for a bite to eat
and a drink. Half-hourly buses from Jaffna
to Karainagar pass within 2km of the beach.
There are three-wheelers available for on-
ward transport.
The southern tip of the island is home to a
naval zone, from where the Kayts ferry (free,
10 minutes, half-hourly except 12.30pm to
2pm, last at 5.30pm) departs.
A kilometre west of the jetty, inside the
naval base itself (present a copy of your pass-
port for access), is part of the spectacular
new resort Fort Hammenhiel (meals rs 400-
800). Right on the shoreline, with amazing
sunset views, the large modern restaurant
here offers excellent meals, including lots of
seafood, and has a full bar. There’s a pretty
white-sand beach with shallow water (and a
muddy sea bottom) that diners are welcome
to use.
Offshore, the tiny islet in the bay is home
to the pocket-sized Fort Hammenhiel (% 381
8216; http://forthammenhielresort.lk; r us$110;
aW), a 17th-century Dutch structure that’s
now been sensitively converted into a luxury
hotel. Owned and operated by the Navy, it’s
only open to paying guests, with access by
boat. There are only four rooms, and meals
can be ordered from the restaurant over the
water. Spending a night here is undoubtedly
one of Sri Lanka’s unique experiences.