Colombo
Colombo
Sights
Colombo
S
ig
H
TS
History
As far back as the 5th century, Colombo
served as a sea port for trade between Asia
and the West. During the 8th century Arab
traders settled near the port, and in 1505 the
Portuguese arrived. By the mid-17th century
the Dutch had taken over, growing cinna-
mon in the area now known as Cinnamon
Gardens, but it wasn’t until the British ar-
rived that the town became a city. In 1815 Co-
lombo was proclaimed the capital of Ceylon.
During the 1870s the breakwaters were
built and Fort was created by flooding sur-
rounding wetlands. Colombo was peacefully
handed over when Sri Lanka achieved in-
dependence in 1948. A new parliament was
built in Sri Jayawardenepura-Kotte, an outer
suburb of Colombo, in 1982.
Bomb attacks in Fort over the years of
war caused Colombo’s major businesses
and institutions to disperse across the city.
With peace, Colombo is growing fast, with
much development north and south along
the coast, a building boom of highrises
in the centre and relentless – and mostly
charmless – sprawl eastward.1 Sights
Lacking signature must-see sights, Colom-
bo’s real appeal lies in its many neighbour-
hoods, which span an era from the earliest
colonial days to the city’s present nascent
boom. Start in Fort and Pettah and work
your way south.1 Fort
During the European era Fort was indeed
a fort, surrounded by the sea on two sidesand a moat on the landward sides. Today
it’s literally at the centre of Colombo’s
resurgence, with grand old colonial-era
buildings being restored amid a mix of
modern structures, such as the World
Trade Center.
Security remains in evidence in this area
as the walled-off President’s House (Map
p60) and various government ministries are
here. You may have to detour around a bit
but it’s a compact area and can be appreciat-
ed on a short stroll, starting at the Old Galle
Buck Lighthouse.
The busy harbour on the north side of
Fort is mostly walled off but you can enjoy
sweeping views from the tiny terrace of the
otherwise humdrum top-floor cafe of the
once-grand Grand Oriental Hotel (p71).oOld Dutch Hospital HiSTORiC BUilDiNg
(Map p60; Bank of Ceylon Mawatha, Col 1)
Centrepiece of the ever-more vibrant Fort,
this colonial-era complex dates back to the
early 1600s. Lavishly restored, it is home to
shops, cafes and restaurants run by some
of Colombo’s best operators. Enjoy a pause
for a cold drink amid the incredibly thick
columns of its arcades. An annex has now
opened in a 19th-century British building
on the backside that faces Chatham St.Old Galle Buck Lighthouse ligHTHOUSE
(Map p60; Marine Dr, Col 1) It was built in 1954
and is surrounded by old cannons. Climb up
onto the large central terrace for views of
the ocean and the rapidly expanding com-
mercial port. The immediate area is getting
a bit of a polish, with some modest stops for
refreshments.COLOMBO IN...
One Day
Start at the bustling markets of Pettah, taking time for small Hindu temples and the
Dutch Period Museum (p61). Head west to Fort and pause to appreciate the restoration
of colonial gems like the Old Dutch Hospital (p58). Rub elbows with busy locals over a
spicy curry and rice at New Palm Leaf Hotel (p75).
In the afternoon visit the eclectic Buddhist Gangaramaya Temple (p 63 ) and wander
down to Viharamahadevi Park (p67). Later, take a stroll along the oceanfront with Sri
Lankan families at Galle Face Green (p61) as the sun sets and enjoy a snack from a vendor.Two Days
Grab a kotthu (a rotti chopped and fried with a variety of ingredients) at Hotel De Pilawoos
(p77) before tackling the excellent National Museum (p 67 ). Afterwards, go shopping at the
many excellent stores and boutiques in leafy Cinnamon Gardens and Kollupitiya. Fo r
dinner, enjoy scrumptious local crab prepared Jaffna style at Yaal Restaurant (p 78 ).