Colombo
ColomboEating
ColomboEAT
iN
gPart of this grand seafront hotel dates to
1806, when it was the residence of the Brit-
ish governor. The appropriately named ‘gov-
ernor’s wing’ has colonial decor and rather
small rooms; the remainder is modern and
rooms have balconies. There’s a private sandy
beach and a beautifully positioned pool and
terrace. Service can be purely average.
5 Eating
Colombo boasts a good and growing selec-
tion of restaurants. Besides great Sri Lankan
food, you’ll find food from across the region
and further afield. There are upscale and
stylish cafes aimed at the well-heeled but
perhaps even more interesting are the many
high-quality places aimed at Colombo’s bur-
geoning middle class.
For cheap, tasty food it’s hard to beat a
lunch packet (about Rs 150). Sold between
about 11am and 2pm on street corners and
from carts all over the city, the lunch packet
contains rice and curry, usually made from
vegetables, with fish or chicken as optional
extras. Also look for open-front shops dis-
playing short eats (snacks to eat on the go)
fresh from the kitchen.
The websites http://www.yamu.lk, http://www.tasty.
lk and http://www.lankarestaurants.com are good
resources for the fast-changing Colombo
dining scene.
5 Fort & Pettah
Hordes of office workers, traders, commut-
ers and residents support excellent snack
stands and restaurants, most aimed at the
masses. In the Fort’s high-profile Old Dutch
Hospital you’ll find an array of chic restau-
rants and outdoor cafes.
oNew Palm Leaf Hotel SR i lANKAN $
(Map p60; 237 Olcott Mawatha, Col 11; meals Rs
200-300; h6am-10pm) Like elsewhere in Sri
Lanka, ‘hotel’ here means ‘simple eating
place’. Across the very busy road from Fort
station and close to Pettah’s market mad-
ness, pause here for a tea and cake or one
of many excellent curries that are properly
fiery.
oT-Lounge CAFE $
(Map p60; %244 7168; http://www.dilmaht-lounge.
com; Chatham St, Dutch Sq; snacks Rs 200-500;
h11am-11pm; aW) A product of Sri Lanka’s
best tea producer, Dilmah, this gem of a cafe
is in an annex to the hugely successful Old
Dutch Hospital. The interior compliments
the restored colonial exterior. The walls are
lined with books about Sri Lanka and tea,
while the menu has a range of tasty snacks
like crepes, sandwiches and desserts, plus
cocktails.Pagoda Tea Room BAKERY $
(Map p60; %232 5252; 105 Chatham St, Col 1;
mains Rs 200-300; h9am-8pm) Hungry like
the wolf? Duran Duran filmed its classic
1980s video for that very song in this ven-
erable establishment opened in 1884 (sadly,
there are no monkeys or snake charmers at
Pagoda these days). Although rice and curry
is on the menu, the main focus is inexpen-
sive pastries.Heladiv Tea Club CAFE $$
(Map p60; %575 3377; Old Dutch Hospital, Col 1;
mains Rs 600-1500; h9am-midnight; a) Tapas
standards, spicy local nibbles, burgers, sal-
ads and much more are served at this good
casual cafe. Choose from fine teas (the peach
iced tea is plummy) or settle back on the
porch with a cocktail.oMinistry of Crab SEAFOOD $$$
(Map p60; %234 2722; http://www.ministryofcrab.com;
Old Dutch Hospital , Col 1; mains Rs 800-4000; h6-
11pm Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; a) Crabs
are a major income earner for Sri Lanka’s
fishing industry but most are exported. This
high-profile restaurant (two owners are for-
mer captains of the Sri Lanka cricket team
plus there’s famous chef Dharshan Muni-
dasa) rectifies this loss by celebrating theSUNSET
The Indian Ocean can yield up sunsets
so rich in vivid colours that your eyes
and brain can’t quite cope. Many people
opt for the outdoor bars in the cloistered
surrounds of the Galle Face Hotel, but
you can have a much more authentic
experience joining Colombo’s great and
many on Galle Face Green. Nature’s
beauty is a moment best shared with
others and you can enjoy a local snack
from the many vendors. The beachside
cafes of Mt Lavinia are also good sunset
venues. Note that the day’s weather is
no indication of sunset quality, a dreary
grey day can suddenly erupt in crimson
and purple at dusk.