Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
EAT iNG
Rajasthan
JA iPUR
addition to the relaxing courtyard and lawn,
there’s a cosy dining room. Management will
help with all onward travel planning.
Hotel ̈Meghniwas ̈ GUESTHOUSE $$$
(%4060100; http://www.meghniwas.com; C9 Sawai Jai
Singh Hwy; r from ₹3500; ais) Next door to
Jas Vilas, this very similar guesthouse has
a nicer garden pool (nonguests ₹250), but
rooms are not the same quality.
4 Old City
Hotel ̈Kailash ̈ HOTEl $
(%2577372; Johari Bazaar; s/d ₹425/475, without
bathroom ₹340/360) Everything about this
hotel is tiny; from the tiniest of entrances –
literally just a small doorway between two
shops – to the narrow staircase leading up
to reception (also tiny), and on into the very
small rooms, which come with TVs and
are surprisingly clean given the prices. Not
much English spoken, but foreigners are giv-
en a friendly welcome. No wi-fi. No espresso
machine. No airs and graces.
Ganpati ̈Vishram ̈Guesthouse ̈GUESTHOUSE $
(%9314203050; Chandpol Bazaar; r ₹350-600)
Secreted away above shops on Chandpol
Bazaar, next to the seemingly forgotten Dina
300-year-old Nadh Temple, this very basic
guesthouse is set around an old, bare court-
yard. Rooms are simple, but the tiled floors
keep them cool and clean. Cold showers only,
but hot-water buckets (₹10) can be provided.
To find reception, climb the narrow staircase
beside shop No 197.
Haveli ̈Kalwara ̈ HER iTAGE GUESTHOUSE $$
(%2315736, 7737903825; neetiraj@hotmail.
com; off indra Bazaar; s/d ₹600/800, with AC
₹900/1200) In the heart of the old-city ac-
tion, but set back from the main bazaar in a
quiet side alley, this rundown but charming
guesthouse has eight huge spartan rooms
with ensuite bathrooms and shared terraces
you can sit out on. No restaurant, but staff
can provide tea and snacks. Walk down the
alley between shops No 94 and 95, turn left
at the end, then right.
4 Rambagh Environs
Nana-ki-Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2615502; http://www.nanakihaveli.com; off Moti Dun-
gri Marg, Fateh Tiba; r ₹1800-3000; ai) This
tucked-away, tranquil, 100-year-old fam-
ily home has attractive, comfortable rooms
decorated with traditional flourishes (dis-
creet wall painting, wooden furniture) and
is hosted by a lovely family.Narain ̈Niwas ̈Palace ̈Hotel ̈HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2561291; http://www.hotelnarainniwas.com; Narain
Singh Rd; r incl breakfast from ₹7400; aiWs)
Built in 1928 by General Amar Singh, this
genuine heritage hotel has a wonderful ram-
shackle splendour. There’s a lavish dining
room with liveried staff, an old-fashioned
verandah on which to drink tea, and an-
tiques galore. The high-ceilinged rooms are
varyingly atmospheric and the bathrooms
also vary greatly – so inspect before com-
mitting. The large secluded garden pool
(nonguests ₹200) is heavenly, as is the spa,
and the sprawling gardens come complete
with wandering peacocks. The restaurant
(7.30am to 10.30pm; mains ₹150 to ₹300)
and bar (3pm to 11pm) are also open to non-
guests. Wi-fi costs ₹500 a day!Rambagh ̈Palace ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2211919; http://www.tajhotels.com; Bhawan Singh
Marg; r from ₹27,500; aiWs) This splendid
palace was once the Jaipur pad of Maharaja
Man Singh II and, until recently, his glamor-
ous wife Gayatri Devi. Veiled in 19 hectares
of gardens, there are fantastic views across
the immaculate lawns, and the rooms and
facilities are top notch. Nonguests are only
made to feel welcome if they dress to im-
press and flash the cash. Minimum spend in
the bar for nonguests: ₹1500 per person. In
the restaurants: ₹2500.5 ̈Eating
5 Around MI Road
Indian ̈Coffee ̈House SOUTH iND iAN $
(M i Rd; mains ₹20-45; h8am-9.30pm) Jaipur’s
tucked-away branch of the South Indian
institution, this 50-year-old, fan-cooled cof-
fee house not only does the cheapest filter
coffee in town (₹12), it also whips up a se-
lection of tasty dishes – dosa (wafer-thin sa-
voury crepes), uttapam (thick savoury rice
pancake), idli (spongy round fermented rice
cake) and vada (doughnut-shaped deep-
fried lentil cake) – as well as toast, omelettes
and sandwiches. A great spot for a cheap
breakfast or lunch.Old ̈Green ̈Tandoori ̈Dhaba ̈ DHABA $
(off Mi Rd; mains ₹50-200; h10am-midnight)
Slightly larger, cleaner and more popular
than the very similar Green Tandoori Dhaba
next door, Old Green Tandoori Dhaba has