Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Si GHTS
Rajasthan
AROUND
J AiPUR
you reach your destination. Your driver won’t get
paid without it.
in other cases you should be prepared to bar-
gain hard. Expect to pay at least ₹50 from the
train or bus station to the Old City.CYCLE-RICKSHAW
Slightly cheaper than autorickshaws, but not
much (about ₹40 from train station to Old City).
Always agree on a fare beforehand, but don’t
forget to tip – it’s a tough job in the Rajasthani
heat, this one.TAXI
There are unmetered taxis available which
will require negotiating a fare, or you can try
Mericar (%4188888; http://www.mericar.in; flagfall
incl 2km ₹50, afterwards per km ₹13, 25%
night surcharge 10pm-5am). it’s a 24-hour
service and taxis can also be hired for sightsee-
ing for four-/six-/eight-hour blocks, costing
₹650/1000/1300.Around Jaipur
Amber
The formidable, magnificent, honey-hued
fort of Amber (pronounced Amer), an
ethereal example of Rajput architecture,
rises from a rocky mountainside about 11km
northeast of Jaipur, and is the city’s must-
see sight.
Amber was the former capital of Jaipur
state and was built by the Kachhwaha Raj-
puts, who hailed from Gwalior, in present-
day Madhya Pradesh, where they reigned for
over 800 years. They financed construction
of the fort with war booty, which was begun
in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput
commander of Akbar’s army. It was later
extended and completed by the Jai Singhs
before they moved to Jaipur on the plains
below.1 ̈Sights
Amber ̈Fort ̈ FORT
(indian/foreigner ₹25/200, guide ₹200, audio guide
Hindi/other ₹100/150; h8am-6pm, last entry
5.30pm) This magnificent fort is made up
largely of a royal palace, built from pale yel-
low and pink sandstone and white marble,
and divided into four main sections, each
with its own courtyard.
You can trudge up to the fort from the
road in about 10 minutes (cold drinks are
available at the top). However, riding up on
elephant ̈back (h7.30am-noon & 3.30-5.30pm,₹900 one way per 2 passengers) is very popular.
A return jeep to the top and back costs ₹300
for five passengers, including one hour wait-
ing time.
If you walk or ride an elephant you will
enter Amber Fort through Suraj ̈Pol (Sun
Gate), which leads to the Jaleb ̈ Chowk
(Main Courtyard), where returning armies
would display their war booty to the popu-
lace – women could view this area from the
veiled windows of the palace. The ticket
office is directly across the courtyard from
Suraj Pol. If you arrive by car you will enter
through Chand ̈Pol (Moon Gate) on the op-
posite side of Jaleb Chowk. Hiring a guide
or grabbing an audio guide is highly rec-
ommended as there are very few signs and
many blind alleys.
From Jaleb Chowk, an imposing stair-
way leads up to the main palace, but first
it’s worth taking the steps just to the right,
which lead to the small Siladevi ̈Temple ̈
(h6am-noon & 4-8pm, photography prohibited).
Every day from the 16th century until 1980
(when the government banned the practice),
a goat was sacrificed here.
Heading back to the main stairway will
take you up to the second courtyard and
the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience),
which has a double row of columns, each
topped by a capital in the shape of an el-
ephant, and latticed galleries above.
The maharaja’s apartments are located
around the third courtyard – you enter
through the fabulous Ganesh ̈ Pol, deco-
rated with mosaics and sculptures. The
Jai ̈Mandir (Hall of Victory) is noted for
its inlaid panels and multimirrored ceil-
ing. Carved marble relief panels around the
hall are fascinatingly delicate and quirky,
depicting cartoon-like insects and sinuous
flowers.
Opposite the Jai Mandir is the Sukh ̈Ni-
was (Hall of Pleasure), with an ivory-inlaid
sandalwood door and a channel that once
carried cooling water right through the
room. From the Jai Mandir you can enjoy
fine views from the palace ramparts over
picturesque Maota ̈Lake below.
The zenana (women’s quarters) sur-
rounds the fourth courtyard. The rooms
were designed so that the maharaja could
embark on his nocturnal visits to his wives’
and concubines’ respective chambers with-
out the others knowing, as the chambers
are independent but open onto a common
corridor.