Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
GETT iNG T HERE
& A WAY
Rajasthan
BHARATPUR
fine carvings (to which entry is restricted)
and two ruined tripolias (triple gateways).
However, the main reason to visit is to see its
handmade paper and block-printing shops,
workshops and factories (most shops can be
found on or just off the main drag, Stadium
Rd), where you can see the products being
made by hand.
You can also walk down towards the river-
bank to see the enormous, brightly coloured
fabrics drying in the sun as they hang on
huge racks.
For block-printed fabrics and blue pot-
tery there are a number of shops, including
Sakshi (%2731862, 978344440; hement_78@
yahoo.com; laxmi Colony; hshop 8.30am-8.30pm,
factory 9am-6pm). You can see a small block-
printing workshop here, and even try your
hand at block printing. It also runs courses
in block printing and blue pottery. Nearby
Salim’s ̈Paper (%2730222; http://www.handmadepa-
per.com; Gramodyog Rd, Sanganer; h9am-5pm) is
the largest handmade paper factory in India
and conducts free factory tours.8 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away
local buses leave from near Ajmeri Gate in
Jaipur for Sanganer every few minutes (₹10,
one hour). You’ll be dropped at a large junction.
Turn right here, under the overpass, and keep
walking for about 1km. Sanganer Village is just
after you cross the river. Sakshi is on the main
road on your right. Salim’s Paper is 500m down
a lane beside Saini Mishthan Bhander sweet
shop, which you’ll see on your right before you
reach Sakshi.Bharatpur
%05644 / POP 252,000
Bharatpur is famous for its Unesco-listed
Keoladeo Ghana National Park, a wetland
and significant bird sanctuary, which can be
explored by bicycle. Apart from the sanctu-
ary, Bharatpur has a few historical vestiges,
though it would not be worth making the
journey for these alone.
The bird sanctuary lies 2km to the south-
east of the town centre.1 ̈Sights ̈& ̈Activities
Nonguests can use the small swimming ̈
pool at Hotel Pratap Palace.Lohagarh ̈ FORT
The still-inhabited, 18th-century Lohagarh,
or Iron Fort, was so named because of its
sturdy defences. Despite being somewhatforlorn and derelict it is still impressive, and
sits at the centre of the town, surrounded by a
moat. There’s a north entrance, at Austdhatu ̈
(Eight-Metal) ̈Gate – apparently the spikes
on the gate are made of eight different met-
als – and a south entrance, at Lohiya ̈Gate.
Maharaja Suraj Mahl, constructor of the
fort and founder of Bharatpur, built two
towers, the Jawahar ̈Burj and the Fateh ̈
Burj, within the ramparts to commemo-
rate his victories over the Mughals and the
British. The fort also contains three much-
decayed palaces within its precincts.
One of the palaces, centred on a tranquil
courtyard, houses a seemingly forgotten
museum (indian/foreigner ₹10/50, camera/
video ₹10/20, no photography inside museum;
h9.45am-5.15pm Tue-Sun). Upstairs is a rather
ragtag display of royal artefacts, including
weaponry. More impressive is the Jain sculp-
ture gallery, which includes some beautiful
7th- to 10th-century pieces (which were tem-
porarily on display outside in the courtyard
at the time of research because of renova-
tions). The most spectacular feature of the
museum, though, is the palace’s original
hammam (bathhouse), which retains some
fine carvings and frescoes.4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
There are tons of sleeping options near the
park (suiting all budgets), either on the
stretch of the highway beside Birder’s Inn
or on the dirt track that the Falcon Guest
House is on. So don’t worry if everything re-
viewed here is full.
Almost all guesthouses have restaurants,
which are open to nonguests too, and even
those without a proper bar can sort you out
with a cold beer if you ask.Shagun ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%9828687488; [email protected]; d
₹110, s/d without bathroom ₹80/90) Well off
the tourist trail, this unusual tree-shaded
courtyard guesthouse, hidden away in a
quiet corner of the old town, is extremely
basic, and has only four rooms, but it comes
with bags of character. It’s run by the very
friendly Rajeev and his young family, who
live in an adjacent property. Rajeev speaks
excellent English and is a keen environmen-
tal campaigner who knows everything about
the bird sanctuary and the old fort. If you’re
entering the old town from the direction of
the park, turn right after walking through
Muttra Gate then look out for the guest-