Rajasthan
SOUTHERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
EAT iNG
Rajasthan
UDA iPUR
Shiv ̈Niwas ̈Palace ̈Hotel ̈HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2528016; http://www.eternalmewar.in; City Palace
Complex; r from ₹15,000; aiWs) This ho-
tel, in the former palace guest quarters,
has opulent common areas like its pool
courtyard, bar and lovely lawn garden
with a 30m-long royal procession mural.
Some of the suites are truly palatial, filled
with fountains and silver, but the standard
rooms are not great value. Go for a suite,
or just come for a drink (beer from ₹475),
meal (mains ₹500 to ₹1000), or swim in
the gorgeous marble pool (nonguests ₹300;
h9am-6pm). Rates drop dramatically from
April to September.4 Further Afield
oKrishna ̈Ranch ̈ COTTAGES $$
(%3291478, 9602192902; http://www.krishnaranch.com;s/d incl meals ₹1500/2500) (^) S This delight-
ful countryside retreat has five cottages set
around the grounds of a small farm. Each
comes with attached bathroom (with solar-
heated hot-water shower), tasteful decor
and farm views. All meals are included in
the price and are prepared using organic
produce grown on the farm. It’s an ideal
base for the hikes and horse treks which the
management – a Dutch-Indian couple – or-
ganises from here, although you don’t have
to sign up for the treks to stay. The ranch is
7km from town, near the village of Badi, but
there’s free pick-up from Udaipur.
5 ̈Eating
Udaipur has scores of sun-kissed rooftop
cafes, many with mesmerising lake views
but often with uninspired multicuisine fare.
Fortunately there’s also a healthy number of
places putting a bit more thought into their
food; beer is plentiful.5 Lal Ghat Area
Lotus ̈Cafe ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(15 Bhattiyani Chotta; dishes ₹50-150; h9am-
10.30pm) Run by an Australian-Indian cou-
ple, this funky little restaurant produces
fabulous chicken dishes (predominantly
Indian, including some Rajasthani speciali-
ties), plus salads, baked potatoes and plenty
of vegetarian fare. It’s ideal for meeting
and greeting other travellers, with a mezza-
nine to loll about on and cool background
sounds. The management’s latest venture,
a multicuisine rooftop restaurant calledHinglish, was about to open two doors up
from here when we last visited.Jagat ̈Niwas ̈Palace ̈Hotel ̈ iND iAN $$
(%2420133; 23-25 lal Ghat; mains ₹150-375; h7-
10am, noon-3pm & 6-10pm) A classy rooftop
restaurant with superb lake views, delicious
Indian cuisine and good service. Choose
from an extensive selection of rich curries
(tempered for Western tastes) – mutton,
chicken, fish, veg – as well as the tandoori
classics. There’s a tempting cocktail menu
(from ₹255) and the beer (from ₹165) is icy.
It’s wise to book ahead for dinner.O’Zen ̈Restaurant ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $$
(mains ₹100-300; h8.30am-11pm) A trendy
new addition to City Palace Rd, this stylish
first-floor restaurant-cafe does a range of In-
dian curries plus Italian pizza and pasta. It’s
bright and modern, does good coffee (₹50 to
₹70), beer (₹180), has free wi-fi and some in-
teresting views of the street below.Savage ̈Garden ̈ MED iTERRANEAN $$
(%2425440; 22 inside Chandpol; mains ₹190-320;
h11am-11pm) Has a winning line in soups,
chicken and homemade pasta dishes with
assorted sauces, though portions aren’t
huge. There are some Middle Eastern influ-
ences too. The setting is atmospheric, in a
250-year-old haveli with indigo walls, bowls
of flowers and tables in alcoves or a pleasant
courtyard.5 Hanuman Ghat Area
oMillets ̈of ̈Mewar ̈ iND iAN $
(www.milletsofmewar.com; Hanuman Ghat; ₹80-140; h8.30am-10.30pm; W) (^) S Our favourite
restaurant in Udaipur, this place not only
does the healthiest food in town, but its
dishes are also super tasty and fabulous
value for money. Local millet is used where
possible instead of less environmentally
sound wheat and rice, there are vegan op-
tions, gluten-free dishes, fresh salads, and
juices and herbal teas. There are multigrain
sandwiches and millet pizzas, but also regu-
lar curries, Indian street-food snacks, pasta
and even pancakes. The coffee is deliciously
unhealthy, and there’s ice cream and choco-
late pudding to go with the millet cookies
on the unusual desert menu. The manager is
young, friendly and laidback, and organises
cookery classes and guided city walks.