Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
EAT iNG
Rajasthan
JODHPUR
home has simple rooms that are spartan, but
neat and tidy. Each has a hot-water shower.
Some have TV and air-con. Home-cooked
meals are available, as is internet (₹40 per
hour ). No wi-fi.
oSinghvi’s ̈Haveli ̈HER iTAGE GUESTHOUSE $$
(%2624293; http://www.singhvihaveli.com; Ramdevji-ka-
Chowk, Navchokiya; r ₹400-2400; aiW) This
red-sandstone, family-run, 500-year-old
haveli is an understated gem. Run by two
friendly brothers, Singhvi’s has 13 individual
rooms, ranging from the simple to the mag-
nificent Maharani Suite with 10 windows
and a fort view. The relaxing and romantic
vegetarian restaurant is decorated with sari
curtains and floor cushions, and the interior
lounge is a delight.
4 Train Station Area
Govind ̈Hotel ̈ HOTEl $$
(%2622758; http://www.govindhotel.com; Station Rd; r
₹600-2000; aiW) Well set up for travellers,
with helpful management, an internet cafe
and conveniently close to the train station.
All rooms are clean and tiled, with fairly
smart bathrooms. There’s a rooftop restau-
rant and coffee ̈ shop (h7am-10pm) with
excellent espresso and cakes and free wi-fi.
4 South of the Old City
Durag ̈Niwas ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2512385; http://www.durag-niwas.com; 1st Old Public
Park lane; r ₹400-600, with AC ₹1000-1400; a)
S A warm, friendly and well-established
family guesthouse set away from the hus-
tle of the old city. It has good home-cooked
food, a cute interior courtyard, a cushion-
floored, sari-curtained area on the roof for
relaxing, and honest, helpful staff. Manage-
ment also offers cultural tours – including
half-day Bishnoi Village tours – and the
opportunity to do volunteer work with the
women’s empowerment NGO, Sambhali ̈
Trust (www.sambhali-trust.org). To get here,
cross the railway footbridge near Raika
Bagh train station then take the second
right. Note, don’t confuse this place with the
next-door Durag Villas Guesthouse, another
colourful place.
5 ̈Eating
As well as the places reviewed here, remem-
ber that most guesthouses have restaurants
(usually on the roof, with a fort view).
Darbar ̈ DHABA $
(133 Nai Sadak; mains ₹40-100; h8am-10.30pm)
Pocket-sized roadside dhaba with Rajas-
thani specialities leading the way on a tiny
but tasty menu. The daal bati (wheat balls
dipped in dhal) is a particular favourite, and
usually eaten with the churma (coarsely-
ground wheat crushed and cooked with
ghee and sugar). We also enjoyed the shahi
masala paneer curry; mop up the sauce
with some tawa roti.Jhankar ̈Choti ̈Haveli ̈MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(mains ₹90-150; h8am-10pm; W) Stone walls,
big cane chairs, prettily painted woodwork
and whirring fans set the scene at this front-
garden travellers’ favourite. It serves up Ra-
jasthani specialities as part of its pure veg
Indian menu (the owners are Jain, so no
eggs or alcohol either). It has fresh coffee for
breakfast and there’s candlelit seating on the
rooftop come evening.Omelette ̈Stalls ̈ CAFE $
(Sardar Market) On your right and left as you
leave Sadar Market through its northern
gate, these two omelette stalls compete for
the attentions of passing travellers by knock-
ing up seemingly endless numbers and va-
rieties of delicious omelettes. Some folks
swear that Omelette ̈Shop (omelettes from
₹25; h10am-10pm) is the better of two. Oth-
ers wouldn’t dream of going anywhere but
Vicky ̈Chouhan ̈Omelettes (omelettes from
₹20; h8.30am-8pm). In truth, they both do a
decent job, and are both run by characters
worth spending a few minutes with.Priya ̈Restaurant ̈ DHABA $
(181-182 Nai Sarak; mains ₹50-73; h7am-midnight)
Open late, and always busy, this clean,
brightly lit, street-facing dhaba has a cer-
tain cheerful clamour, and serves up reli-
able North and South Indian cuisine. The
thalis (₹89) are good and the chaat (savoury
snacks) are popular.Kalinga ̈Restaurant ̈ iND iAN $$
(off Station Rd; mains ₹130-300; h8am-11pm)
This smart restaurant near Jodhpur train
station has air-con, a well-stocked bar (beer
from ₹130), and tasty veg and nonveg North
Indian tandooris and curries, including a
selection of kebabs. Try the lal maans, a
mouthwatering Rajasthani mutton curry.Mid ̈Town ̈ iND iAN $$
(off Station Rd; mains ₹100-150; h7am-10.30pm)
This clean, air-conditioned place does great