ART GALLERYCheck out the view of Marrakesh atop the pisé ramparts, and keep an eye out for upcoming
events here. The king occasionally entertains royal visitors here, and the stately setting adds
instant atmosphere to the Festival of Popular Arts in July. To reach the entrance, head through
Pl des Ferblantiers and turn right along the ramparts.
Minbar
El-Badi’s main attraction (well worth the additional Dh10 ticket) is the Koutoubia minbar (prayer
pulpit), its cedar-wood steps intricately inlaid with marquetry and gold and silver calligraphy by
12th-century Cordoban artisans under a mâalem named Aziz – the Metropolitan Museum of Art
restoration surfaced his signature.
TOP THREE WAYS TO REPAY MARRAKSHI HOSPITALITY
Urban Marrakesh may surprise you with small-town social graces. Offers of mint tea, assistance for the elderly, treats for
children and invitations to share meals are common courtesies in Marrakesh. Offering money for generous gestures creates
an awkward situation – only faux guides and naughty children expect to be paid for pointing you towards the Djemaa el-Fna.
Your sincere shukran (thanks) is reward enough, but if you’re feeling overwhelmed by kindness, you can always make a
generous gesture in return.
Give Your Blessing
To acknowledge or graciously refuse a kind gesture, all you need to know is one phrase: Barakllafik , literally, ‘blessings with
you’. More than a pleasantry, this is considered a potent blessing, especially when uttered with one hand on the heart and
looking directly in the eye of the intended recipient. Your blessing may or may not have magical properties – only the magic
dealers in the Djemaa el-Fna can say for sure – but it’s heart warming for everyone involved, and establishes instant
friendships.
Do Something for the Kids
Marrakshis are known across Morocco as the bahja (the joyous ones), and while Marrakshis do specialise in good times,
they’re also justifiably concerned for the welfare of future generations. Illiteracy remains a serious problem, especially for girls
from impoverished families. A Marrakesh-based NGO, Education for All (www.efamorocco.org) has already built three school
dormitories outside Marrakesh, so that girls who show early promise in school are able to continue to attend. Visitors can
volunteer on-site or attend a fundraising event, such as High Atlas bike rides or school open houses (see the website for a
calendar).
Take It to the Streets
In addition to the jokes and small kindnesses you’ll encounter in Marrakesh streets, you’ll also notice homeless kids with
nothing much to do and nowhere to go. Atfalouna (www.atfalouna-marrakech.com; donation requested; 5-7pm Mon-Thu &
Sat) provides a home, meals, education and a future to 320 Marrakesh children under age 15 who otherwise have no shelter,
no food and scant prospects. Travellers are welcome to visit Atfalouna’s centre near Bab Doukkala – two-day advance notice
is required. Small groups (three to six) can organise volunteer efforts to enhance the centre. Travellers have already
established a library, painted a mural on the terrace, set up a computer training lab, and even payed the centre’s rent for a
year; sliding-scale donations of Dh400 to Dh800 supply a student’s food for a month, or allow a child who’s never had a
summer holiday to see the ocean for the first time. Warm, clean clothing is also appreciated, and can be dropped off on pre-
scheduled visits. The response to your generosity is a sincere barakllafik .Maison de la Photographie
Offline map Google map ( 0524 38 57 21; www.maison-delaphotographie.com, in French; 46Rue Fassi; adult/child Dh40/free; 9.30am-7pm) When art collectors seek the same works,
bidding wars ensue – but when Parisian Patrick Menac’h and Marrakshi Hamid Mergani
realised they were both collecting vintage Moroccan photography, they decided to open a