LOCAL
SANDWICH SHOP, FAST FOOD
LOCAL
LOCAL
ITALIAN
the city’s most famous patisseries, with enough pain-au-chocolat, petit fours, almond cookies
and ice cream to keep Djemaa el-Fna dentists in business. The small cafe at the back is a
welcome respite for women, or anyone in search of a quiet coffee; tea for two with sweets
runs to Dh50.
Restaurant Place Ferblantiers $
Offline map Google map ( west entrance Pl des Ferblantiers; tajines Dh45-65; lunch) Plop down
on a plastic chair in the courtyard, and have whatever’s bubbling away and well-caramelised on
the burner. The meat and produce are fresh from the Mellah Market across the street, and the
chef whips up dishes in front of you.
Fast Food Alahbab $
Offline map Google map ( Rue de Bab Agnaou; salads Dh15-25, sandwiches Dh20-30; 7am-
11pm) The awning boasting ‘recommended by Lonely Planet’ must be decades old now, and
still we stand by our initial assessment of the Dh35 shwarma accompanied by four sauces and
just-right French fries, with great people-watching at communal sidewalk tables.
VILLE NOUVELLE
Al-Fassia $$
Guéliz Offline map Google map ( 024 434060; 55 Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni, mains
Dh120-180; noon-10.30pm Wed-Sun; ); Zone Touristique de l’Aguedal (Al Fassia
Aguedal; 024 383839; www.alfassia-aguedal.com; MH 9 Bis, Route de l’Ourika) Glassy-
eyed diners valiantly grip morsels of bread, scraping the last savoury caramelised onion from
what was once a Berber pumpkin and lamb tajine. The mezze of nine starters alone is a proper
feast, but there’s no resisting the classic mains perfected over a decade by the Marrakshi
sisters who own the place – especially when each dish is presented with a heartfelt B’saha! (to
your health). Book ahead for the Guéliz location, which is cosier and more convenient.
Plats Haj Boujemaa $
Offline map Google map ( 25 Rue ibn Aicha; Dh35-75; noon-10pm Tue-Sun) Grab a
tidy booth or hold out for courtyard seating in back, and try to save some spicy olives and
warm bread for the parade of grilled meats that’s coming. If you’re feeling adventurous, this is
the place to try offal, correctly cleaned and prepared – though even when properly cooked until
golden, sheep’s testicles have a floury texture, not to mention stringy bits that stick in your
teeth. That said, the chips are fantastic, and steak well-marinated.
Le Chat Qui Rit $$
Offline map Google map ( 0524 43 43 11; 92 Rue de Yougoslavie; pizzas Dh50-80, set menu
Dh150; 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun; ) Come here for proper pasta: al dente, tossed with fresh
produce and herbs, and drizzled with fruity olive oil. Corsican chef/owner Bernard comes out to
ask about everyone’s pasta with the delight of a chef who already knows the answer. Seasonal
seafood options are a good bet, with fixings just in from the coast daily.