CULTURAL CENTRENATURAL SCENERYAÏT BLEL TO AÏT BOUGOMEZ
With a 4WD and dry weather April to November, exploration of this spectacular valley portal to Aït Bougomez is the next best
thing to time travel. On this meandering drive through High Atlas foothills, you’ll pass centuries-old mountain oaks dotting
vertically striped sedimentary rock formations from the Triassic period, some 230 million years ago. You won’t encounter
many cars, but you will spot rare birds including kestrel, a type of falcon. Villagers often wave as you pass, and if you stop, you
may get invited for tea.
The road sometimes narrows to one lane, but it’s paved or graded the entire way (though bridges can wash out in winter).
The cliff-edge villages you’ll pass make it worth the additional two hours you’re taking to reach Aït Bougomez over the Tizi-n-
Oubadou, instead of going the faster route via Aït Mohammed. If you’re heading through Aït Blel, gas up before you go: the
biggest town is Khemis Aït Blel, with a Tuesday souq and stalls selling sundries and occasionally petrol.
Near the pass, Gîte Tizi-n-Oubadou ( 0661 44 36 02; per person incl breakfast/half-board Dh50/120) is a cheerful, lilac-
painted house at the top of the village, overlooking meticulously trimmed terraces with carob and almond groves. If you call as
you leave Demnate in the morning, they may be able to provide lunch (Dh60 to Dh80).Sights & Activities
Association Attadamoun Pour les Handicapés
( 0668 90 98 01; [email protected]; Demnate) Afternoon mellah tours and
evening musical concerts are arranged through this nonprofit organisation providing schooling,
job training and essential life skills to disabled youth. The association’s director, Mr Hassan
Khallaf, speaks fluent English and French and is extremely knowledgeable about Demnate’s
mixed Muslim/Jewish heritage (he’s currently finishing his PhD in sustainable cultural tourism).
By prior arrangement (one week in advance, with confirmation the day before arrival) he gives
wonderful historical tours of Demnate’s mellah, passing through souqs and funduqs and ending
at the Attadamoun centre and school. Given at least one week’s advance notice and small
groups of five to 10 visitors, Mr Khallaf can also arrange a concert of local Hamadcha-style
music with a local musicians’ union.
Proceeds for mellah walking tours and benefit concerts support the association’s efforts to
extend essential support services and educational opportunities to all. Donations are on a
sliding scale: Dh500 provides one week’s petrol for the school bus; Dh800 offers breakfast to
46 disabled students for two days; or for philanthropists moved by what they see at the centre,
Dh3000 sends a student to consult a medical specialist in Casablanca about available
treatments. Donations may be left in the front office at the Attadamoun centre, and a receipt is
provided. Donations have already helped fund a school bus, and is helping Attadamoun
graduates open a boutique selling items made by disabled artisans; look for the ‘Handishop’
sign along the main road.
Imi-n-Ifri
Just 6km east of Demnate is Imi-n-Ifri (‘Grotto’s Mouth’ in Berber), a natural bridge over
a gorge that looks like a monster’s yawn. You can clamber down into the gorge and pass
through this toothy maw by yourself – the paths are clearly marked and recently levelled – but
you might pay a small tip (Dh20 to Dh30) to a local guide to help you over some tricky boulders