MAISON D’HÔTEINNThe Cascades are so universally beloved that the scenery around the mouth of the falls has
become touristy. The path leading from the left side of the town square to the base of the falls
is lined with souvenir stalls, cafes and camp sites, and no one paddling the pools below the falls
really wants to think about what happens with runoff from hole-in-the-ground toilets built into the
hillside.
Most cafes on the banks flanking the falls offer meals for Dh60 to Dh80, and several offer
camp sites for Dh15 – but until serious steps are taken to keep garbage and outhouses in
check, the environmental cost of these establishments is too high to recommend them to nature
lovers.
Two local environmental organisations are working on solutions. Two portable toilets are now
installed along the main path, and a garbage collector has been hired to keep trash in check.
You can help keep the falls beautiful by packing out trash and using the portable toilets.
Sights & Activities
Locals might lead you into the gorge for a few dirham, but you can follow well-trodden paths. At
the bottom, you can hike along the riverbed to pools where you can swim, or cross the river to
another path where Barbary apes clamour for attention – though a signpost advises not to
feed them. To see the picturesque Berber village of Tanaghmelt , follow the path by the lower
pools past a farmhouse and up the slopes about 1.5km. For longer treks, follow the course of
the river to caves (two hours) and the Gorges of Oued el-Abid (another two hours).
Sleeping & Eating
Riad Cascades d’Ouzoud $
( 0662 14 38 04; www.ouzoud.com; s incl breakfast Dh510-610, d Dh710-810, tr
Dh950, ste Dh1050-1150; ) At this stylish mudbrick guesthouse located 30m from the top of
the Cascades, the gentle rushing sound of the falls has been known to lull guests to sleep while
dining on the terrace or reading in the library. Solar-heated showers, ceilings painted with
Berber talismans, and family-style welcomes from local staff make you feel part of the scenery.
The riad arranges kayaking, river-sliding, visits to rural souqs and tea with local families.
Hotel Chellal $
( 0523 42 91 80; http://hotelchellal.weebly.com; s/d incl breakfast Dh220/350) On the hilltop
a few steps down the path leading left from the town square is this chipper inn, featuring simple
rooms in pastel colours with en-suite bathrooms, post-hike hang-out spots, and a terrace
restaurant; cash only.
Getting There & Away
From Marrakesh, it’s easiest to get transport direct to Azilal, from where grands taxis run when
full to Ouzoud (per person/taxi Dh25/250 return). Head back to Azilal before 4pm, when taxis
become scarce and drive hard bargains.