CAFE, GUESTHOUSEoffers stunning views, followed by an exhilarating and very long descent (at least three hours)
to Timichi. There’s a sheltered spot for lunch 30 minutes’ walk beyond Tizi n’Tacheddirt.
The path heads down past ancient, gnarled juniper trees and around the sloping eastern flank
of Jebel Angour, where sheep and goats are brought to graze from early spring. Though fairly
well defined, this part of the trail is very rocky and at times clings precariously to the
mountainside. Proceed with caution if there’s any precipitation, as it gets dangerously slippery
when wet.
The landscape gradually changes from a pale coffee colour to red and green. Finally, the
cascading terraces of Iabassene village come into view. Head for the huge old walnut tree
standing guard outside the village, then follow the path that leads past the houses. The path
veers northeast from here, and Timichi is another 2km further.
There are two gîtes at this point of the trail: Chez Ali Ouhya (dm Dh30, hot shower Dh10) in
Iabassene, and Chez Oussalem Brahim (dm with hot shower Dh40) in Timichi. The latter is
outside the village proper, on the south side of the river, and has a great terrace overlooking the
bustling village. Basic meals are usually available at both places.
Day 3: Timichi to Setti Fatma
3½-4 HRS/12KM/370M DESCENT
Cross the river bed and turn right to follow the long, easy trail that runs east above cornfields
and walnut groves, passing through Tiourdiou and a string of other small villages: Tiwediwe,
Anfli and Tadrart. Along the way are bird’s-eye views onto intricate irrigation channels and
village terraces. In late May and early June, many of these terraces are crammed with golden
barley, ready for summer harvest. As the valley gradually opens, the path starts to climb higher,
clinging to bare mountainsides.
Since the path becomes increasingly rocky at Tadrart, you might prefer to follow the dirt
road, which brings you into Setti Fatma in 1½ hours. To extend your vacation from road traffic a
little longer, pick your way along the river’s course from Tiwediwe to the trail’s end in Setti
Fatma, where piping-hot tajines await at riverside cafes.
SETTI FATMA
A little village that’s seen a whole lot of tourist action in the past decade, Setti Fatma is a scenic
stop for lunch by the river and hikes to seven waterfalls. The village is neatly nestled in a
canyon beneath the High Atlas mountains at the southern end of the Ourika Valley road, 24km
south of the Oukaïmeden turn-off at Aghbalou. Waterfall hikes range from an easy 20-minute
stroll to arduous stream hikes; ignore the faux guides and follow the paths, or find a licensed
guide to lead the way on foot or mule at the bureau des guides (Click here ).
Prime times to visit are in early March where the cherry and almond trees are in bloom, or in
August for the four-day moussem, with its fair and market at the koubba of Setti Fatma. During
the summer the place is clogged with visitors from Marrakesh gasping for air; to cool down
without the crowds, head instead to the splendidly untrammelled Zat Valley (Click here ).
Sleeping & Eating
Hôtel Restaurant La Perle D’Ourika $
( 0666 34 95 99; d incl breakfast Dh200-450; set meals Dh100-120) Kitted out
colourfully as a Marrakshi water-seller, this cliff-edge cafe is smartly run by motherly Ammaria,