side of the riverbed (though it crosses over twice). It climbs for about 50 minutes before
bearing left (southeast) up to the col (pass). Atop Tizi Likemt are views of verdant valleys and
jagged peaks, including Oukaïmeden and Jebel Toubkal on clear days.
The rocky path leading down the other side (southeast) passes a semipermanent water
source on the left after 30 minutes, and irrigated pastures above Azib Likemt after another
hour. An azib is a summer settlement, and Azib Likemt (2650m) is occupied from May through
October by local people growing crops on irrigated terraces and fattening cattle in lush
pastures.
You may be offered shelter or a place to pitch your tent in Azib Likemt. Otherwise, walk
through terraces down to the Assif Tifni , cross the river, turn right and walk upstream to a
group of large boulders, where you’ll find a flat camp site close to the river.
Day 3: Azib Likemt to Amsouzert
6-6½ HRS/15.2KM/470M ASCENT/1380M DESCENT
This direct route south to Amsouzert is less demanding than yesterday’s walk, but offers some
good ridge walking. From Azib Likemt , the well-worn trail leads behind the camp site south,
up the mountainside and into the tremendous gorge formed by Assif n’Tinzer . Above the
river’s eastern bank, the trail snakes above the Tombe Asmine waterfall before descending
close to the river. Follow the river for about two hours past stunning cliffs and through wide
pastures, until an obvious track leads up the valley to Tizi n’Ououraïne (3120m; also known as
Tizi n’Ouaraï) and brilliant views of the eastern face of Toubkal, Dôme d’Ifni (3876m) and the
rest of the jagged Toubkal massif. By way of contrast is Agounss n’Tiniline (3674m), 90
minutes away to the northwest, and other softer, rounded peaks to the east.
Continue over the col , where the trail traverses the head of the valley to a spur and trail
crossroads. Heading southwest, a trail leads down the ridge to Tagadirt (after 50m there’s a
fantastic viewpoint south to Jebel Siroua ), but turn left (southeast) and follow the mule track
south. Traverse the head of another valley and along the side of a spur to reach the ridge after
90 minutes; Lac d’Ifni is visible to the west. After a further 15 minutes, just before two pointed
outcrops, the path forks. Turn right and continue descending slowly southwards to a large cairn.
Descend southwest, then west down the end of the spur to Amsouzert (1797m) in 30 minutes.
Amsouzert is a prosperous village (one mosque and several satellite dishes at last count)
spread on both sides of the river. If you’re planning a rest day, this is an excellent place to take
it. Next to the school is an outdoor tearoom shaded by an enormous walnut tree where you
may able to camp (per tent Dh20) . Otherwise, you can stay at Gîte Himmi Omar (dm Dh40,
tajine Dh30) .
In Amsouzert are small shops, a couple of cafes west of the river and early morning
transport to the N10 highway connecting Marrakesh and Ouarzazate. About 3km south of
Amsouzert is another village called Imlil (not to be confused with the Imlil trailhead on the
northern side of the range), which hosts a wildly popular Wednesday souq featuring wild
herbs, timeworn tools, a whole lot of mules and local gossip.