Despite icy winters and scalding summers, the High Atlas Mountains are extremely fertile. Overgrazing, agriculture and wood
collection for fuel has impacted the High Atlas; much of its indigenous vegetation has disappeared. But through painstaking
reforestation and resourceful mountainside terrace farming using targa (channel) irrigation, the hills are alive with a diversity of
flora. For a fascinating introduction to Berber botany, stop by Dar Taliba ( Click here ) for botanical garden visits and tea with
eight High Atlas herbs.
Here’s what you’ll spot on High Atlas walks:
» » Valleys Riots of flowers erupt in spring, when valley almond, cherry and apricot orchards bloom. In summer, you’ll enjoy
the shade of carob, quince, pomegranate, apple and fig trees. Terraces scale High Atlas valley walls to surprising heights, and
resourceful farmers manage to eke multiple crops from tiny plots: barley October through to May, and potatoes, carrots,
turnips, onions, lentils and beans spring through to autumn. Walnuts are a major crop in higher villages, with harvest in late
September.
» » Subalpine zone (2400m to 3200m) Thickets of gnarled Spanish juniper (Juniperus thurifer) are blasted into extraordinary
shapes by the wind, and exposed roots cling like fingers to the rock. Cedar is being planted to prevent erosion, and replace
fragrant Atlas cedar used for woodworking.
» » High elevations The easiest to spot are ‘hedgehog plants’, spiny, domed bushes that briefly burst into flower in spring.
Even when you don’t spot plants on the trail, you’ll get a whiff of lavender, rosemary and wild thyme underfoot, perfuming your
boots as you walk.Day 4: Amsouzert to Azib Imi n’Ouassif
5½-6 HOURS/10.5KM/1100M ASCENT
Between November and June, mules will not make it much beyond Lac d’Ifni, the largest lake in
the High Atlas. Muleteers have to take mules to the Toubkal Refuge via Sidi Chamharouch,
which means you’ll have to carry your kit to Azib Imi n’Ouassif over Tizi n’Ouanoums
(3600m) to Toubkal Refuge.
From Amsouzert follow the level, well-used 4WD track that continues northwest towards
Lac d’Ifni above the north side of the river. The path takes you through the villages of Ibrouane
, Takatert and Tis-gouane before reaching Aït Igrane , where there are a couple of cafes and
Gîte Belaïde (dm Dh40) . There is also a shady camp site (Dh30) on a flat, stony site just
beyond the Café Toubkal, with a cold shower and toilet.
Follow the 4WD track along the riverbed northwest out of Aït Igrane, picking up the narrow
rocky mule path where the 4WD track crosses the river then turns sharp left. The mule path
leads around the north side of Lac d’Ifni (2295m), across sharp, rocky, barren, inhospitable
terrain. The climb is steep at first, but it descends to the northeastern corner of Lac d’Ifni, an
inviting expanse of green water where anglers fish for trout. The walk to the lake should take
three hours. Before you reach the shore, you will pass a shack marked ‘café’. There’s no
coffee here, but if it’s attended you may able to buy water, soft drinks and, with any luck, a
tajine.
On the small beach on the northern shore are shady (if occasionally fly-filled) stone shelters. The ground is rocky without vegetation, but the lake offers safe, refreshing swims. If it’s rainy,
camping nearer the next pass is treacherous, and you’re better off finding a camp site above
the lake.
Every October, villagers from the surrounding area gather at Lac d’Ifni for a three-day
moussem in honour of a local marabout , whose tomb sits high above the southeastern corner
of the lake. A track leads from the northeast shore up to the tomb.
From the northwestern side of the lake, the track crosses the wide, dry part of Lac d’Ifni
before the long, snaking trudge towards Tizi n’Ouanoums (3600m). The path climbs through a
rocky gorge, keeping to the south side of the river. About 3.5km from the lake, you’ll reach Azib