Imi n’Ouassif (2841m), situated at a crossing of dramatic gorges. Beyond this point the path
climbs steeply to Tizi n’Ouanoums, with winds near the summit and small, frigid waterfalls. You’ll
find flat, rocky areas for pitching tents and shelters in surrounding cliffs long used by local
shepherds.
Day 5: Azib Imi n’Ouassif to Toubkal Refuge
4HR/4KM/759M ASCENT/393M DESCENT
The path to Tizi n’Ouanoums is immediately northwest of the camp site, leading up into a
particularly rocky, rugged landscape. It’s a steep, demanding climb, but the views are
spectacular from the top over Assif n’Moursaïne , hemmed in by jagged ridges of Adrar bou
Ouzzal and Ouimeksane . The path crosses the river several times after leaving the camp,
reaching a stone shelter and water source after an hour and the col another hour further. Even
in midsummer it’s cold and blustery at the top, with snow in shady crevices.
Coming down the other side, there’s treacherous loose rock and snow until July. From here
you can see Jebel Toubkal and, to the west, the path to Tizi n’Melloul (3875m). After the
descent, the track levels out and heads due north to Toubkal Refuge (3207m), about two hours
from Tizi n’Ouanoums.
CAF’s Toubkal Refuge ( 064 071838; dm CAF members/HI members/nonmembers
Dh46/69/92) , formerly known as Neltner, was completely rebuilt in the 1990s but suffers from
overcrowding, damp, and a lack of facilities. Queues for showers (Dh10) and toilets are
interminable in busy periods. Meals are available and there’s a shop selling chocolate, cola,
biscuits and limited supplies. The new Refuge Mouflon ( 061 213345;
[email protected]; dm Dh75) , next to Toubkal Refuge, provides a welcome choice, with
more facilities (shower Dh10), a better-stocked shop and good meals (Dh50) in the chilly
lounge. You can also camp downstream from the refuge or 20 minutes south of the refuge on
flat pasture.
Assuming you reach the refuge before lunch, there are trekking options to occupy the
afternoon – including the three- or four-hour descent directly north back to the starting point,
Imlil (Click here ), if you don’t want to climb Jebel Toubkal. You could ascend the second-
highest mountain in the region, Jebel Ouanoukrim (4088m, five to six hours return). The best
option is to rest all afternoon to prepare for the climb up Jebel Toubkal the following morning.
Day 6: Toubkal Refuge to Azib Tamsoult
5HR/8KM/493M ASCENT/1300M DESCENT
From the Toubkal Refuge pick up the mule track that heads northwest then gently climbs north
across the slope for about 15 minutes. You will come to a fork near a small rounded wall, used
as a sheepfold. Turn left, westwards, up the zigzagging mule path, which will bring you to Tizi
n’Aguelzim (3560m) after two hours. It’s a slower trail but less treacherous than the southern
route at Tizi n’Taddert, which is often abruptly closed due to dangerous conditions.
Panoramic views await at Tizi n’Aguelzim pass: east to the Toubkal summit, northeast to the
Imlil valley, northwest to Azzadene and west to the Tazaghart plateau. From here, the track
twists in some 92 hairpin bends downhill for almost an hour. At the bottom, it crosses a stream.
Twenty minutes further on, at a fork, take the left-hand track, and take another left 15 minutes
later. Here the track leads uphill for 10 minutes to cosy CAF Tazaghart Refuge ( 067
852754, Oukaïmeden 024 319036; dm CAF/HI members/nonmembers Dh42/63/83) , which
sits beside a stunning waterfall. There are mattresses for 22 people, gaslights and a basic
kitchen.