FOOD & DRINK(villages) lining Oued Ounilla , including Anmiter and Tamdaght . The tarmac road from the
highway to Telouet is pockmarked, but the historic piste linking Telouet to Aït Benhaddou via
Oued Ounilla has recently been graded, and makes a fascinating and relatively smooth 36km
ride by 4WD or mountain bike to Aït Benhaddou . Hotels in Telouet can arrange guides and
mules to walk the route to Aït Benhaddou for around Dh300 per day.
Zat Valley
For decades trekkers have jealously guarded the secret of one of the most pristine hidden
valleys in the High Atlas. When Marrakesh is sweating it out 50km to the northwest, breezes
are rippling through barley and swaying poplar trees along this charmed river valley.
To reach Zat Valley, take the N9 towards Ouarzazate until it crosses the Oued Zat at Aït
Ourir, then head south towards the transport town of Tighdouine at the near end of the valley.
Tighdouine offers tasty roadside tajines before entering Zat’s land of make-believe: gardens
built right into cliff faces, stone houses with bright-blue doors, white-framed windows with
families leaning out to say hello. This is all best appreciated on foot or mule. There’s a piste
winding above the valley floor, but only physicist drivers should attempt it.
Time seems to have forgotten the Zat Valley, which is a mixed blessing: some small villages
here are without running water or medical supplies, and children walk upwards of 8km to reach
the nearest school. But without spoiling the landscape, local self-help associations are coming
up with home remedies. One- to five-day walking tours are organised by Inside Morocco Tours
( Click here ), with proceeds shared by local Association Ajlal to underwrite Zat schooling and
medical initiatives.
When villagers who eke out a living from tiny terrace plots invite you home for their best
homemade bread, butter, walnuts and wild-sage tea, the hardest hearts melt like snow on the
High Atlas mountains framing the Zat Valley. In terms of etiquette, it’s fine to offer a small
monetary token of appreciation, but don’t press the issue if it’s refused. Save larger donations
for local associations, who will use it wisely on bridges, reforestation, literacy programs and a
medical dispensary.
Sights & Activities
Isafarne Honey Collective
( 077 787548) On the left about 13km after the turn-off from the Ouarzazate road at
Aït Ourir (about 2km before Tighdouine), you’ll spot an eye-catching pink building with the sign
of a bee. This initiative involves 120 Zat locals in labour-intensive production of a rare and truly
exceptional dark, spicy honey from wild Berber medicinal plants that thrive in the Zat Valley.
The president of the collective, Mr Ahmed Zaki, will gladly treat you to a taste of the collective’s
honey (250/500g Dh80/150) with local bread. Mr Zaki can help you identify the complex
flavours you’re tasting, which depending on the time of year, may include verbena, wild sage,
lavender, carob flower, wild mint, walnut and mountain thyme. He’s here on weekdays, though
you might spot him on weekends here or walking the road from Zat, his pack laden with fresh
honeycomb.