KASBAHKASBAHGUESTHOUSEBERBER, LOCALMEDITERRANEAN/BERBERLOCALKasbah Ellouze $$$
( 0524 89 04 59; www.kasbahellouze.com; Tamdaght; incl half-board s Dh528-755,
d Dh704-1054, ste Dh1054; ) This pisé guesthouse blends in with the adjacent
kasbah, overlooking almond orchards ( luz means almonds). The best rooms have orchard
views, especially stylish doubles by the heated pool. Guests gather in the kitchen to learn to
make local bread, for aperitifs and wi-fi in the jazz salon, and for watercolour-painting
excursions into the Ouinilla and Drâa Valleys – but whenever resident camels Ella and Maryline
poke their heads curiously into the courtyard, all activities are abandoned in favour of camel
rides.
Fibule d’Or $
( 0524 88 76 82; www.lafibule-dor.com; d incl breakfast Dh360, per person half-board
Dh250) An all-natural pisé guesthouse that threatens to steal scenes from the glammed-up
movie-star kasbah directly across the valley. In this nine-room guesthouse, rooms numbered 6,
5 and 7 are high-ceilinged and bright, but number 8 has the best view of the historic kasbah.
Prices are reasonable for rooms with en-suite bathrooms, and thick mudbrick walls keep rooms
naturally cool without air-con.
Etoile Filante d’Or $$
( 024 890322; www.etoilefilantedor.com; d incl breakfast/half-board Dh385/550; )
Moonlit desert nights on the Etoile’s roof terrace lure guests out of 19 spacious, newly
renovated rooms for movie-script-inspiring kasbah views. Guest rooms are a savvy combination
of traditional ( tataoui ceilings, Berber blankets) and modern (en-suite bathrooms, air-con), and
there’s wi-fi and à la carte lunches (meals Dh60 to Dh90). Trust Moroccan-French hosts Hind
and Aurélien to organise dromedary rides and bike tours.
Eating
Hotel-Restaurant Baraka $$
( 0524 89 03 05; www.hotel-labaraka.com; meals Dh70-90) The à la carte couscous with
chicken, vegetables and trade-route spices is bountiful, but you’ll be scraping the tajine for
traces of local-specialty kalia, with meat slowly simmered in smen (seasoned butter) and
caramelised onions, and an egg poached on top. If you need a nap afterwards, there are
scuffed, basic rooms upstairs ( doubles with/without air-con Dh200/150).
Auberge La Goulade $$
( 0524 88 48 72; www.lagoulade.net; meals Dh70-100) The eclectic, cosy little restaurant
run by Moroccan-French couple Sami and Michel features fresh salads with flavourful local
produce, pizza with Berber herbs, decadent kefta tajines and a well-stocked bar.
Chez Brahim $
( 0671 81 63 12; meals Dh70) Sure, there are other tajines in town, but only Brahim’s
improve international relations: the chef/owner has a letter from Hilary Rodham Clinton thanking
him for a meal in her First Lady days. The set menu includes salads, tajine and dessert in a