KASBAHHOTELHOTELHOTELFUSIONDh1020-1275, d Dh1200-1500, ste Dh2400-3000; closed Jul; ) Once a stern 17th-
century Glaoui courthouse, this cosy pisé guesthouse has a sense of humour: upturned tajines
serve as sinks and sewing-machine tables are repurposed as desks. Local iron-workers went
wild decorating en-suite bathrooms, though showers are poorly ventilated – a fine excuse to
use the in-house hammam and massage room. Ask for upstairs doubles – as nice as suites at
half the price, only smaller.
Dar Daïf $$$
( 0524 85 42 32; www.dardaif.ma, in French; Douar Talmasla; s/d incl half-board
Dh710/1143; ) On the edge of the palmeraie, this solar-powered, pisé family home is a
maze of courtyards, hideaway guest rooms, private terraces and a courtyard pool. Dar Daïf
has a quirky shoes-off policy, compulsory dinners and small bathrooms – but it’s well staffed,
offers free hammam use, and organises desert tours and village visits on foot, donkey and
camel. To get here, take a left after Hotel la Vallée, and follow signs along the 5km piste .
Hôtel La Vallée $
( 0524 85 40 34; www.hotellavaleemaroc.com; per person incl half-board Dh200; )
Trekkers, bikers and families fill these 41 rooms, and live musical accompaniment makes the
mealtime race to poolside buffets even more madcap (breakfast Dh20). Guest rooms feature
stuccoed ceilings, hard beds, desert murals and reliably hot showers. It’s 2km down the Rte de
Zagora.
Hôtel Royal $
Offline map ( 0524 88 22 58; 24 Ave Mohammed V; s/d/tr Dh70/130/175, with bathroomDh115/170/235; ) Central and far more pleasant than you’d expect for the price, though bring
earplugs. Some updated rooms feature stucco ceilings, carved doors, tiled bathrooms and air-
con (check when booking). The terrace and courtyard are traveller hang-outs, and the cafe
downstairs offers fresh juices, strong coffee and tajines (Dh40).
Hôtel Nadia $
( 0524 85 49 40; www.hotelnadiaozt.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh200/305/385; )
Shiny new tiled bathrooms and guest rooms, stucco ceilings, hand-painted doors, chipper staff
and a modest courtyard pool make a welcome switch from dusty budget hotels. It’s 1km down
the Rte de Zagora.
Eating
Le Relais Saint Exupéry $$$
( 0524 88 77 79; www.relaissaintexupery.com; 13 Blvd Moulay Abdallah; set menu
Dh90-260, dinner mains Dh99-336; lunch & dinner, closed lunch Wed & Jul) Creative
dishes featuring local ingredients such as Talouine saffron and Saharan salt that made a splash
at Slow Food’s Terra Madre conference. Try flaky pastilla of fish, or dromedary meat in a Mali-
inspired sauce of garlic, cumin, ginger, and paprika. It may seem odd to find adventurous
gastronomy near the Ouarzazate airport, but this airport was an inspiration to Little Prince