MAISON D’HÔTESKASBAHMAISON D’HÔTESwindows keep the cool, authentic character of this converted family home. Rent bikes to tour
kasbahs, pick up maps at reception for palmeraie strolls, hit the in-house hammam, and unwind
by the chlorine-free pool with local Larroque white wine.
Kasbah Azul $$
( 0524 84 39 31; www.kasbahazul; Agdz; d incl breakfast Dh833-1000, tr Dh1165, q
Dh1387-1997, ste 1330; ) Hiding in a garden at the eastern end of the historic centre
like an arty recluse, this seven-room kasbah has rooms with en-suite tadelakt bathrooms in
contrasting hues: acid green and plum, terracotta and powder blue. The owner contributed her
own collaged lamps and paintings to the striking decor – but this artist’s retreat has a keyhole
pool and copious breakfasts (no starving artists here).
Casbah Caïd Ali $
( 0524 84 36 40; www.casbah-caidali.net; Rue Hassan II; d with/without breakfast
Dh220/190, mattress on roof Dh35, tent Dh10-25; ) Descendants of the local caïd welcome
guests to their partially restored kasbah, in courtyard guest rooms with original painted Berber
motifs, simple wood and wrought-iron furnishings and shared bathrooms. Your multilingual
(German/English/Darija/French) hosts arrange meals (half-board Dh170) in Berber tents by the
spring-water pool. Camp sites are available in the garden under the palms.
Rose du Sable $$
( 0524 88 64 52; www.rosedusable.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh466/633/800; ) Like
a rock star in the desert, this eight-room guesthouse keeps a low profile but can’t help standing
out, with psychedelic stained-glass windows, Flintstone-esque granite walls, and two
wheelchair-accessible guest rooms. The Jolie-Pitts recommend this guesthouse, and who are
we to argue with Shiloh?
Eating
At the entry to town on the left, there’s a gas station with a convenience store and cafe, the
Kasbah Total ( 8am-9pm) , where you can fuel up on good espresso and packaged snacks
galore, though it’s sometimes closed in summer and winter. Cafes ring Pl Marché Vert in
downtown Agdz, including Sable d’Or , which serves sensational saffron-scented rotisserie
chicken with chips (Dh35).
Getting There & Away
CTM and other buses stop here between Ouarzazate and Zagora, and occasional grands taxis
go to Ouarzazate (Dh25) and Zagora (Dh28).
Agdz to Zagora
TAMNOUGALT
Just down the road from Agdz is a star attraction of the Drâa Valley: a 16th-century fortified