KSARMAISON D’HÔTESKASBAHvillage that’s among the oldest mudbrick ksour still standing and an essential stop on any
Moroccan architecture pilgrimage.
Sights
Tamnougalt Ksar
(admission Dh 10, compulsory guide Dh50) The maze of rooms at Tamnougalt ksar
leads through a sizable mellah, dips underground with strategically placed skylights and candle
nooks, and emerges into sunny courtyard stables lined with horseshoe arches. See if you can
distinguish between the Arab, Andalusian and Berber Jewish motifs that blend so seamlessly
here – or at least recognise scenes shot here from Oscar-winning movies Babel and The
English Patient . As you emerge into the courtyard stable at the back of the complex, blinded
by the sunlight, try not to stumble over architecture students from Spain and Belgium sketching
key details.
Sleeping & Eating
Bab el Oued $$
( 0524 88 53 95; www.babeloued-maroc.com; d Dh660-825, tr Dh990, ste Dh935;
) Shaded by date palms in a walled organic garden, these charming guest bungalows fairly
beam with local pride thanks to wooden doors carved in town, carpets from nearby Tazenakht,
palm-beamed ceilings, and glossy tadelakt bathrooms. By keeping the pool small and toilets
low-flow, the French- and English-speaking owners conserve enough water to grow 60 types of
plants, including herbs and vegetables for Moroccan-Mediterranean meals and treats for
resident rabbits. Nonguests can call ahead for organic lunches, and nap in hammocks by
goldfish ponds afterwards. It’s 1km east of Rte de Zagora, 5km south of Agdz.
Chez Yacob $$
( 0524 84 33 94; www.lavalleedudraa.com; half-board per person Dh300; ) Next door to
Tamnougalt’s ancient mellah are eight unfussy, snug rooms with en-suite bathrooms ringing a
torch-lit courtyard, capped by a scenic terrace overlooking the palmeraie . Set menus are
Dh80-90, and bountiful enough to count as lunch and dinner. It’s 2km from Route de Zagora, the
turn-off is 4km south of Agdz.
Getting There & Away
Turn left off the main road 4km past Agdz, then 2km east up a piste .
CIRCUITS TOURISTIQUES
Those with 4WD shouldn’t miss the slower, scenic piste that runs from Tamnougalt to just north
of Zagora, parallel to highway N9. The dirt road winds along the north side of the valley through
palm oases, villages, patchwork fields and river vistas all the way to Zagora. For shorter 4WD
excursions along the scenic north side of the Drâa, follow signposts for ‘circuits touristiques’ off
N9 that lead past Kasbah Said Arabi at Ouled Atman and the Tinzouline kasbah . At
Tansikht, about 30km before Zagora, look out for the old watchtower guarding the palmeraie ,
signposted ‘Oasis Du Drâa’.