KSARART & CRAFTThe springs are signposted on the left (north) 3km before town, and the green line of the Ferkla
oasis begins on the southwest edge of town, where you’ll spot towering Ksar Asir.
Inside restored Ksar el-Khorbat is Musée de Oasis (admission Dh20) , a fascinating mu-
seum that traces movements of tribes through artefacts of seminomadic life: saddles worn
shiny; contracts inscribed on wooden tablets in Arabic and Hebrew; Tinejdad jars for water and
preserved butter; heavy silver jewellery; and to protect it all from would-be thieves, inlaid
muskets and handcuffs. To see what treasures you can find from desert traders, hit the
Sunday and Wednesday souq on the west side of town.
Sleeping & Eating
Ksar el-Khorbat €
( 0535 88 03 55; www.elkhorbat.com; Ferkla Oasis, Tinejdad; s/d incl half-board
Dh600/800; ) Seasonal meals of garden-grown pumpkin soup and Saharan beef tajines with
dates (Dh80 to Dh100) are served in the walled garden of the ksar , a regular stop for 19th-
century Aït Merghad nomads. The ksar is still inhabited, and you too can spend the night in this
living museum. Ten rooms are big enough to house a small, seminomadic tribe of your own,
with en-suite bathrooms, air-con, mosquito nets over the beds and Tinejdad clay pots as
lampshades.
Shopping
Galerie d’Art Chez Zaid
( 0661 35 16 74; 9am-1pm & 3.30-6pm) Snoop around this converted home of a local
calligrapher and you might find Tinejdad-made crockery in the courtyard, sand-worn bracelets in
the salon, and wonderful, well-patched nickel silver teapots in the kitchen. Located in downtown
Tinejdad, 200m after the Shell station on the right.
Information
There’s an Attijariwafa ATM on the left side of the street across from the Tinejdad commune.
Getting There & Away
Grands taxis run from town when full to Goulmima and Tinerhir.
Goulmima
POP 16,600
An ancient hub of Berber culture, with towering ksour lining the palm oasis that runs north–
south through town, a pre-Islamic necropolis northeast of town (signposted from N10), and
three souqs per week (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday) where you can score locally made
couscous platters. Lining the main street are ATMs, internet cafes, and as of late, huge
billboards of the king in snappy traditional attire.
The main attraction is the labyrinthine Ksar Aït Goulmima , a walled village on the southeast