village of Merzouga north past the oasis village of Hassi Labied – but there’s no denying the
spectacular dune views from rooms and terraces. Sand toys (snowboard, skis etc) and
bicycles are free to use at many hotels.
CAMEL QUERIES
Before you agree to a dromedary trek, ask the guide the following questions.
» » How big is your camp, and how many people are headed there tonight? Overnight treks often congregate in the
same spot, so if you have a romantic notion of being alone in the dunes under the stars, find an outfit with a separate camp.
» » How far is it to the camp site? Not everyone is cut out for dromedary-riding – it makes some seasick, and others chafe.
For long treks, bring motion-sickness pills and cornstarch or talcum powder.
» » Does the trek guide speak English, or another language I know? This is important in the unlikely case of emergency
in the desert, and to avoid awkward hand-gesture explanations when you need to use the bathroom.
» » Is that camel mad at me? Don’t take it personally – but do make sure your camel is well rested. Cranky, overtired camels
are notorious for sudden shifts, dead stops and throat-rattling spitting. Well-rested camels are sweeter and slow-moving, and
gamely pose for photos.Activities
Most hotels offer excursions into the dunes, ranging from Dh80 to Dh250 for two-hour sunrise
or sunset camel treks. Overnight trips usually include a bed in a Berber tent, dinner and
breakfast, and range from Dh300 to Dh650 per person. Outings in a 4WD are more expensive:
up to Dh1200 per day for a car taking up to five passengers. Camels are recommended over
4WDs for dune exploration – though they might growl occasionally, they’re ecofriendly.
The same cannot be said for noisy, invasive quads (dune buggies). The constant pounding of
quads especially has been levelling dunes, and their reverberating vibrations disturb wildlife,
travellers and local residents. The town has begun to rally, posting signs prohibiting quad use in
the dunes. Better yet, the demand for quads seems to be dropping as travellers become more
attuned to the issues (and dust) they raise.
If you show up in town unaccompanied by a guide or a dromedary, you can anticipate
repeated offers of both. Try to keep it in perspective: since getting by in the desert is
notoriously tough, you might get a little pushy sometimes too. If you feel pressured, step away
from the interaction.
WHICH DESERT?
Watching the sunset over rolling Sahara dunes is a once-in-a-lifetime experience that can actually be found two places in
Morocco: Erg Chebbi (next to Merzouga) and Erg Chigaga (near M’Hamid). Here’s how the two destinations match up on
Lonely Planet–visitor criteria.
» » Natural beauty Both. Merzouga’s rose-gold dunes are framed by sun-blackened reg (hard-packed desert), while Erg
Chigaga’s dunes are yellow-gold, surrounded by sun-bleached reg and sahel (a mix of soft and hard sand) dotted with pretty,
poisonous calitropis trees.
» » Dromedary trips Merzouga. Within half an hour’s dromedary ride from downtown Merzouga, you can be inside rolling
dunes, while it takes a two-hour 4WD drive to reach dunes in M’Hamid.