RESORTMAISON D’HÔTES» » Calm Erg Chigaga is more remote and further from city noise. Merzouga is finally limiting the use of quad bikes on the
dunes, after noise and dune deterioration got locals riled and turned off tourists. But both regions need to work on restricting
4WD access to the dunes, since dromedary rides lose a certain magic when cars are roaring past, and late 4WD arrivals
rudely interrupt stargazing.
» » Romance Erg Chigaga has the edge here, with fires and candles setting the mood without hindering night-time visibility in
the desert. In longer-established Merzouga, some long-standing encampments have streetlights that affect stargazing and
romantic prospects with their brash fluorescent glow.
» » Convenience In Merzouga, you can stay at a comfy hotel with a fabulous view onto the dunes, and take in the scenery on
a two-hour dromedary ride. Erg Chigaga is faster to reach from Marrakesh, but it involves a guided 4WD trek from M’Hamid
that takes at least 2½ hours.
» » Ecotourism Neither. M’Hamid has recently begun rubbish collection and water-bottle recycling efforts, which is a
promising start. Agencies must also do their part at desert encampments to curtail waste – flush toilets are especially
worrying, since water treatment plants are far from here. Morocco is instituting a ban on non- biodegradable plastic bags, but if
every visitor who loves these dunes packed out their litter and picked up stray plastic bottles, the sunsets and environmental
outlook in the Sahara would be rosier.
» » Child-friendliness Both. Since sound travels in the desert, you’ll need to switch off electronic games and anything else
that bleeps to preserve the dunes’ tranquil timelessness. But no matter: this is nature’s own playground, where kids really cut
loose and frolic. With any luck, they’ll sleep the whole ride back to Marrakesh.Sleeping & Eating
Many hotels are reached by pistes that run 1km or more east off the tarmac road. Since
they’re not all close together – Hassi Labied is 5km from Merzouga – it’s worth calling ahead to
make sure hotels have space. Most hotels offer half-board options, and you can sleep on a
terrace mattress or in a Berber tent for Dh30 to Dh50 per person.
In May 2006, heavy rains caused a freak flash flood in Merzouga that took six lives, 300
homes and a dozen hotels. All but one of the hotels (Riad Maria) is now rebuilt. Sometimes a
taxi driver may insist that the hotel where you want to stay was lost in the flood, but if it’s in this
guidebook, that’s clearly not the case. There’s an easy way to resolve this with a mobile phone:
call and ask hotel staff to explain to the driver where you want to go.
HASSI LABIED
Dar el Janoub $$$
Offline map ( 0535 57 78 52; www.dareljanoub.com; d standard/large/ste per person
Dh580/725/800; ) Neighbouring hotels take the 1001 Nights approach to hospitality, but
Dar el Janoub is an Amazigh haiku, with little adornment beyond the Berber alphabet on the
lobby wall. Rooms are all clean lines and cool colours, because when you’re facing the dunes,
why compete? Rates are on the high end, and dune-view rooms cost extra – but for the price
you’re getting half-board, a chlorinated pool, and pure poetry.
Maison Merzouga $$
Offline map ( 0535 57 72 99; www.merzouga-guesthouse.com; per person incl half-boardDh350-450; ) Unlike places nearer the dunes, this 14-room local family-run guesthouse
focuses on Berber hospitality instead of desert-themed decor. Besides lounging poolside and
enjoying the in-house hammam, you’re invited to join local holiday celebrations, bake bread in
the kitchen, and explore the palmeraie . The best room is the cheapest tower room, with dune