MOSQUE, MEDERSANOTABLE BUILDINGSPeople began to settle in Salé in the 10th century and the town grew in importance as
inhabitants of the older settlement at Sala Colonia began to move across the river to the new
town. Warring among local tribes was still rampant at this stage and it was the Almohads who
took control of the area in the 12th century, establishing neighbouring Rabat as a base for
expeditions to Spain.
Spanish freebooters attacked in 1260; in response the Merenids fortified the town, building
defensive walls and a canal to Bab Mrisa to allow safe access for shipping. The town began to
flourish and established valuable trade links with Venice, Genoa, London and the Netherlands.
As trade thrived so too did piracy, and by the 16th century the twin towns prospered from the
activities of the infamous Sallee Rovers pirates. It was here that Robinson Crusoe was brought
into the town in Daniel Defoe’s novel.
By the 19th century the pirates had been brought under control, Rabat had been made
capital and Salé sank into obscurity.
Sights
Salé is worth a day trip from Rabat. The main entrance to the medina is Bab Bou Haja, on the
southwestern wall, which opens onto Pl Bab Khebaz. From here walk north to the souqs, and
find the Grande Mosquée 500m further northwest along Rue Ras ash-Shajara (also known as
Rue de la Grande Mosquée). Alternatively walk along the road that runs inside the city walls
past Bab Bou Haja and Bab Malka for a more straightforward approach.
Grande Mosquée & Medersa
Central to life in pious Salé and one of the oldest religious establishments in the country, the
Grand Mosquée and medersa are superb examples of Merenid artistry. They were built in 1333
by Almohad Sultan Abou al-Hassan Ali. The mosque is closed to non-Muslims, but the splendid
medersa Offline map Google map (admission Dh10) is open as a museum. Similar to those in Fez
or Meknès, it takes the form of a small courtyard surrounded by a gallery. The walls are
blanketed in intricate decoration from the zellij base to the carved stucco and elegant cedar
woodwork.
Small student cells surround the gallery on the upper floor, from where you can climb to the
flat roof, which has excellent views of Salé and across to Rabat. The guardian who shows you
around will expect a small tip.
Shrines
To the rear of the Grande Mosquée is the Zawiya of Sidi Abdallah ibn Hassoun Offline map
Google map , the patron saint of Salé. This respected Sufi died in 1604 and is revered by
Moroccan travellers in much the same way as St Christopher is revered among Christians. An
annual pilgrimage and procession in his honour makes its way through the streets of Salé on
the eve of Mouloud (the Prophet’s birthday). On this day, local fishermen dress in elaborate
corsair costumes, while others carry decorated wax sculptures and parade through the streets,
ending up at the shrine of the marabout (saint).