HISTORIC SITEsite became known to Muslims as Tuchummus.
EL MOKHTAR EL HANNACH, LIXUS GUIDE
I was born here at Lixus. The family house was over there, where they’re building an information centre; my father planted
those fig trees. Now I live in the countryside and take a bus to work. My father was the first guide here, starting in 1923. I
learned from him and took over; I’ve been here 40 years.
In those early times when the ancient people lived here, the sea came right up to Lixus; now it’s 4km away. That’s what
made it such an important place. You can see the Carthaginian building remains – they’re the large stone blocks of the lower
sections of the walls, the amphitheatre and the temples. The Romans were neater and used smaller blocks. But the Romans
abandoned the rainwater collection pits that the Carthaginians built, which wasn’t very sensible. Apart from the fish garum , the
main export from Lixus was olives. Now the olives are wild up here, and only for the birds.
If I had a choice, I’d rather have been a Carthaginian than a Roman.Sights
Ruins
The main gate to Lixus is in the green railings that border the Larache–Tangier road. Inside the
railings to the left are the remains of the garum factories, where fish was salted and the prized
paste produced, beloved in Rome. A gravel path leads up the hill from the gate past a number
of minor ruins to the public baths and amphitheatre . The amphitheatre provides impressive
views of the surrounding countryside and makes a wonderful place just to sit and relax.
Most mosaics from the site were removed and are now on display at the archaeology
museum in Tetouan. The Grand Temple mosaics depicting Helios, Mars and Rhea, the three
Graces, and Venus with Adonis are all there. The only remaining mosaic at Lixus is that of
Oceanus (the Greek Sea God). Unfortunately, it’s been exposed both to the elements and to
local vandalism, so is in rough shape.
Continue up the path to the main assembly of buildings, which straddle the crest of the hill.
From here there are incredible views down over the Loukos Estuary and salt fields below.
The civic buildings, additional public baths and original city ramparts are here, while to the
south is the striking citadel, a flurry of closely packed ruins standing stark against the sky.
Although most of the antiquities are in an advanced state of decay, you should be able to make
out the main temple and associated sanctuaries, an oratory, more public baths and the remains
of the city walls.
Getting There & Away
Lixus is approximately 4.5km north of Larache on the road to Tangier. To get there take bus 9
from outside the Casbah de la Cigogne (Dh5). A petit taxi costs about Dh25 one way.