LANDMARKART & CRAFTall arrived, giving the city a particularly sordid reputation.
When the Interzone period ended, Tan-gier entered a long period of decline. As the economic
base moved on, so did the cultural scene. The city became a dreary port, while retaining its
criminality. Having taken a dislike to it, successive monarchs cut off access to key funds. Street
hustlers multiplied, turning off tourists. The numbers of expats dwindled, until there were only a
few thousand left.
Since 1999, Tangier has been the site of major development with its new port, Tanger Med,
and a drive towards increasing tourism across the region with Tangier the central hub.
Sights
Grand Socco
Offline map Google map The Grand Socco is the romantic entrance to the medina, a large, sloping,palm-ringed plaza with a central fountain that stands before the keyhole gate Bab Fass. Once a
major market, its cobblestone circle is now the end of the line for taxis, the point at which the
modern streets narrow into the past. For the best ground-floor view, climb the steps at the
highest point on the circle, across from the large tan building (the police station), to what locals
simply call La Terrasse . This is what you came for, one of those dreamy moments when you
think you’ve entered a movie set.
The Grand Socco is also the hub of several other sights, all visible from within it. First is the
Cinema Rif, which stands on the circle. The brightest light on Tangier’s cultural scene, it is a
combination art-house cinema, cafe and archive, and is the local focal point for anything to do
with film. Young Tangaouis come to soak up the ambience and use the free wi-fi.
DARNA, the Women’s Association of Tangier
Offline map Google map The yellow building opposite La Terrasse is a small complex offering aninexpensive restaurant, a boutique shop with crafts and clothing, and a sunny courtyard, making
it a popular stop for lunch or just a place to relax. Since 2002, DARNA has served as a
community house to help local women in need, such as those suffering the after-effects of
divorce.
TANGIER IN...
One Day
After breakfast at Le Salon Bleu in the kasbah , take a wander through the sultan’s palace , and a meander down the
medina streets. Don’t miss Majid’s treasure-trove of a shop before lunch at Le Nabab . The Grand Socco is the perfect
place for mint tea. Wander up to St Andrew’s Church for a spot of gravestone reading, then take in the latest art exhibition at
Ibn Khaldoun Gallery before heading to El-Minzah Spa for a hammam. A drink in the Caid’s Bar is followed by dinner at Les
Passagers de Tangier , before heading to the Tangier Inn just like a Beat poet.
Two Days
Discover the vibe of the new city with breakfast at the plush La Giralda where you can check the views over to Spain from La
Terrasse des Paresseux . Head to DARNA and browse the craft shop before a fishy lunch at Populaire Saveur du
Poisson . A post-prandial stroll through the Mendoubia Gardens is perfect, followed by a photo-opportunity visit to the fresh
produce market . Just around the corner is the American Legation Museum where you can seek out Morocco’s Mona Lisa.
After dinner at Casa de España , dance the night away at Beach Club 555 .