LANDMARK
MUSEUM
CHURCH
RIAD
Place Hassan II
Offline map Google map The broad and empty Place Hassan II, which is mostly roped off for
security reasons, links the medina to the Ensanche. It looks like it houses the Wizard of Oz with
guards standing in front of the long flat facade of the royal palace, and four fountains with
central columns towering all around. These are not minarets, as one might suppose, but art-
nouveau light towers designed by a student of Gaudí. The large decorations on the opposite
wall are abstract Hands of Fatima, a common symbol used to ward off the evil eye. There are
a few nondescript cafes which are good for a rest, particularly on the 2nd floor, which allows a
grander view.
THE ENSANCHE
Take in the Ensanche by walking along Ave Mohammed V from Place Al-Jala Offline map
Google map to Place Moulay el-Mehdi Offline map Google map . The broad boulevard is lined by
bright white Spanish colonial architecture, with a few art deco elements, reminiscent of styles
found elsewhere (eg Casablanca, Larache) with restoration funded by the Andalucian
government.
Archaeology Museum
Offline map Google map (Ave al-Jazaer; admission Dh10; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) A few blocks
from the Place al-Jala there is an extensive museum with an excellent collection of artefacts
from the Roman ruins at Lixus, displayed both inside and in the gardens. Labelling is in French,
Spanish and Arabic.
Iglesia de Bacturia
Offline map Google map (Place Moulay el-Mehdi; Sunday mass 11am, daily mass 7pm) This
Roman Catholic church was built in 1926 and is still active.
Sleeping
Due to the rapid development of the nearby coast, the first question one must now answer is
whether to stay in town or not. Tetouan’s port, Martil, is only an inexpensive 15-minute cab ride
away; M’Diq, the classiest option, is twice that. The contrast could not be greater between the
ancient medina and these modern resorts with their snazzy corniches, and can be either jarring
or a relief. The beachfronts are very quiet outside the holiday season of July and August.
If you choose the city, your next decision is whether to stay in the medina or not. A night or
two within the ancient walls is an unforgettable adventure and an opportunity to see typical
Tetouan architecture and furniture, usually studded with mother-of-pearl inlay.
Blanco Riad €€€
Offline map Google map ( 0539 70 42 02; www.blancoriad.com; 25 Rue Zawiya Kadiria;
d incl breakfast Dh880, ste from Dh1320; ) This beautiful medina house with its typical
Tetouan architecture has been carefully restored and furnished with a blend of modern and
antique pieces. It offers large, comfortable rooms and a Zen-like garden. One of the salons
contains an enormous hammam, and another, an excellent restaurant open to non-guests. The
welcome is friendly and help is available to discover the medina.