GUESTHOUSEHOTELSEAFOODTo counter this illegal trade, the government, encouraged by the European Union, is actively promoting rural tourism by
supporting the establishment of gîtes and training programs for guides. This is beginning to provide an alternative source of
income for local people.The Coast North & East of Chefchaouen
OUED LAOU
With its dusty main street lined with slapdash construction, small but growing Oued Laou looks
like a Wild West town on the sea. Waterfront budget rooms, cheap beer and food, internet
cafes and a very long, empty beach make it a backpacker paradise, especially in summer.
There’s nothing to do aside from watching the fishermen haul their boats in the morning.
The road from Chefchaouen to Oued Laou has recently been upgraded and the journey is
now reduced to one hour.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Oued Laou €
( 0655 21 37 89/0650 18 43 38; Blvd Massira; s/d from Dh150/200) There are several new
budget hotels to choose from, but this is the best. Located on the beach, it has a pool room,
one of the better cafe-restaurants and an energetic young manager. Get a room with views to
the sea.
Mare Nostrum €€€
( 0664 37 60 57; www.marenostrumhotel.net; family bungalow incl breakfast Dh1500; )
In a glorious position on the cliffside, this is the perfect getaway. Located 4km from town on the
road to Tetouan, the small, self-contained resort consists of a series of bungalows, with a pool,
a restaurant (mains Dh150), a charming lounge and its own private cul-de-sac beach far below.
The bungalows are large and have recently been refurbished. They offer magnificent views
towards the rocky headland. Reserve ahead in summer.
La Plage Restaurant €
(Corniche; mains from Dh20) Facing the fishing boats, this place has great sardines fresh from
the boat, and filling meals of chicken and chips and tajines.
Information
Cyber Costa (per hr Dh5; 9am-midnight) Opposite La Plage Restaurant but unlikely to be
open out of season.
Getting There & Away
If you’re driving from Chefchaouen turn off the main Tetouan road at Dar Ackoubaa, 11km north
of Chefchaouen. It’s a wonderful drive past the large hydroelectric dam and through rolling hills
and the stunning Laou Gorge. Coming from Tetouan, the upgraded N16 hugs the dramatic
coastline for 140km all the way to El-Jebha.