Chefchaouen, is well trodden and unproblematic in this respect. In a concerted effort to reduce
reliance on the cannabis industry, local organisations, backed by the government, are setting up
rural tourism facilities such as gîtes and homestays, managing routes and training guides.
The Rif Mountains rarely top more than 2500m in height, with most treks only occasionally
venturing over 2000m, so altitude sickness isn’t the worry it can be in other parts of Morocco.
Wildlife
The Rif’s climate and proximity to Europe endows it with a Mediterranean vibe – the area
closely resembles the sierras of southern Spain. Cedars make up the majority of tree species,
including a rare endemic species Abies maroccana, a variant of the Spanish cedar that is only
found above 1200m. It’s a relic of an older, cooler period in Morocco’s history. In addition, cork
oak, holm pine, wild olive, juniper and the rare carob are some that dot the limestone
mountains. The stony land is hard to cultivate and thin in nutrients; deforestation is an issue
here as in other parts of Morocco. Various herbs such as lavender and thyme grow in
abundance and are used by the local population as medicines.
Locals may tell you that there are wolves in the mountains, but it’s a mistranslation – there
are foxes. Wild boar are also native, but have a retiring nature that makes them hard to spot.
The Rif’s most famous mammals are the Barbary apes (known locally as mgou ), whose range
extends south into the Middle Atlas.
You’ll have better luck with birdlife. Raptors easily spotted wheeling on thermals include
black-shouldered kites, golden eagles and long-legged buzzards. Ravens can also be seen
against the limestone cliffs.
Scorpions present a small risk in the Rif, although less so than further south. Be wary of the
red scorpion; stings are extremely painful. The venomous fer à cheval viper (named for the
horseshoe-like mark on its head) is more likely to flee from you than vice versa.
Day 1: Chefchaouen to Afeska
5½-6½ HRS/14.5KM/1200M ASCENT/600M DESCENT
An early morning start is recommended for the first day, which starts on the 4WD track behind
Camping Azilane (see Click here ), with an initially steep ascent climbing through the trees to
give great views over Chefchaouen’s medina. Skirting the southern slopes of Jebel el-Kelaâ
(1616m), the track evens out to follow the stream passing through the hamlet of Aïn
Tissimlane , before once again rising in an arc to a high pass by the jagged limestone crags of
Sfiha Telj . The views here are astounding in both directions, and on a clear day you can see
the Mediterranean in the distance. The climb is a killer with a full pack – the hardest of the trek
– which explains the necessity for a cool early morning start.
The track turns east before descending. Stopping regularly to enjoy the fine views, take the
right (southern) fork where the track splits – this takes you down in an hour or so to the village
of Azilane , where there’s a gîte . If you don’t want to stop here, continue for another hour
along a mostly level path to Afeska where there’s another gîte .
PLAN YOUR TREK
Weather