Morocco Travel Guide

MUSEUM

HISTORIC    BUILDING

CHURCH

The ‘new town’ is a broken grid of streets with an attractive commercial centre full of
Modernist buildings. The heart is the long triangular Parque Hernandez, which ends at the
circular Plaza de España. Most of the hotels, banks and restaurants are located to the north.
Like neighbouring Morocco, 4km to the south, you’ll find few locals wearing shorts in the city,
even when it is hot.

MODERNISME & MELILLA

Like    many    of  the movements   from    which   it  drew    its inspiration (eg the English Arts    &   Crafts  Movement)   Modernisme  was a

broad   reaction    to  the material    values  of  an  industrial  age,    which   suffused    culture with    a   machinelike spirit. Centred in

Barcelona,  it  was the Catalan version of  art nouveau.    Modernist   architecture    is  characterised   by  the use of  curves  over    straight

lines,  the frequent    use of  natural motifs  (especially plants),    lively  decoration  and rich    detail, asymmetrical    forms,  a   refined

aesthetic   and dynamism.   Its chief   proponent   was Antoni  Gaudí,  the architect   of  Barcelona’s famous  Sagrada Familia

cathedral.  But in  Melilla,    Modernism   is  synonymous  with    Enrique Nieto.

Nieto   was a   student of  Gaudí,  who worked  on  his Casa    Milá    in  Barcelona.  Wanting to  escape  his master’s    shadow,

however,    he  left    for booming Melilla in  1909,   in  his late    twenties,   and stayed  the rest    of  his life.   He  became  the city    architect   in

1931,   retired in  1949,   and died    four    years   later.  During  his long    career  he  took    part    in  over    1000    projects    and finished    457,

forever changing    the face    of  his city.   His work    drew    on  many    styles, including   art deco.   He  also    helped  found   one,    known   as

Sgraffito   Architecture,   a   blend   of  art deco    and aerodynamic forms.  His work    included    Melilla’s   main    synagogue,  the main

mosque  and several buildings   for the Catholic    Church, representing    the diversity   of  the city’s  culture.    Perhaps due to  the

distant location    of  his canvas, however,    this    great   painter in  concrete    is  not well-known  outside of  Melilla.

Sights & Activities

MELILLA LA VIEJA (OLD MELILLA)

Offline map Google map The fortress of Old Melilla has been restored to perfection. The main
entrance is Puerta de la Marina Offline map Google map , fronted by a statue of Franco, from

where you ascend to the summit, passing several small museums. There is a lift, too, though it
was not working at the time of research. Signage, in Spanish, French and English, is very good.

Museo de Arqueología e Historia

Offline map Google  map (Plaza  Pedro   de  Estopiñán)  This    museum  was closed  for renovation  at

the time of research. Expect it to open again with its nifty little collection of architectural
drawings, ancient ceramics and coins, and numerous models and archaeological finds.

Aljibes de las Peñuelas

Offline map Google  map (    10am-2pm   &   5-9.30pm    Tue-Sat,    10am-2pm    Sun Apr-Sep)    The

small door across the courtyard leads into the cave-like, other-worldly cistern that is still
flowing.

Iglesia de la Purísima Conceptión

(Parish of the Immaculate Conception; 10am-3pm & 4-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm Sun)
This 17th-century is worth a stop for its resplendent nave.