HOMESTAYSof the city’s founder, Moulay Idriss, draws huge crowds. Local artisans create special tributes
and there’s a huge procession through the medina. Traditional music is played and followers
dance and shower the musicians (and onlookers) with orange-blossom water or rosewater.
FÈS FESTIVAL OF WORLD SACRED MUSIC
Every June the Fès Festival of World Sacred Music ( 0535 74 06 91; www.fesfestival.com) brings together music groups
and artists from all corners of the globe, and it has become one of the most successful world music festivals around. Based
on the pluralism of Moroccan Sufism, the festival has attracted big international stars such as Ravi Shankar, Youssou N’Dour
and Salif Keita. Concerts are held in a variety of venues, including the Batha Museum and the square outside Bab Bou Jeloud.
While the big names are a draw, equally fascinating are the more intimate concerts held by Morocco’s various tariqas (Sufi
orders). Fringe events include art exhibitions, films and talks at literary cafes. In 2001 the festival was praised by the UN as a
major event promoting dialogue between civilisations. Tickets can go like hot cakes and accommodation books up far in
advance (often attracting a festival premium) – so organise as far ahead as possible if you plan on attending.Sleeping
Fez doesn’t lack for variety in its accommodation options, with everything from simple pensions
to boutique riads. Your main choice is whether to stay in the colour and chaos of the medina, or
a petit-taxi ride away in the ville nouvelle (where budgets tend to go further). Room rates in Fez
are in the higher (city) bracket – Click here for details. Booking in advance is advised during
high season, and especially during the Festival of World Sacred Music in June, when
supplements also often apply. Note that although prices here are listed in dirham, many riads
actually list (and charge) rooms in euros, so be aware of currency exchange rates when
booking.
The agency Fez Riads ( 0572 51 33 57; www.fez-riads.com) is a good place to find
accommodation in the medina, and donates a percentage of profits to local restoration
projects.
MEDINA
Most of the cheapest options are in touching distance of Bab Bou Jeloud, placing you right in
the middle of the action. Unless noted, rooms have shared bathrooms at this price range – and
don’t expect hot water at the lower prices. Many midrange options in the medina, especially the
riads and dars, edge close to the top-end price bracket. A few places offer simpler rooms at
manageable prices. Rates here include breakfast unless mentioned.
Ziyarates Fes €
Offline map Google map ( 0535 63 46 67; www.ziyaratesfes.com, in French; 35 Sidi
Kjih, Talaa Seghira; s/d from Dh200/300) If you really want to experience medina life up close,
there might be no better way than through this innovative homestay scheme. Fassi families rent
rooms in their homes to welcome foreign guests, while support from the regional tourism
authorities ensures the quality of the places signed up. You might practise your Arabic, learn to
cook or just help the kids with their homework in this unique cultural exchange. Exact prices
vary, but all family homes are listed (with photos) on the organisation’s website.